Panasonic G3 vs Canon 600D vs Canon G12 ?? Genuinely Seeking 。。。。。

Let me give you some advice. Judging from the prices of these three cameras you gave, I guess your budget should be around 4000-5000.

So, for SLR, I still don't recommend it.

I think it's still suitable for you. G12, I think the cost performance is relatively low. Not recommended. And it's heavier.

Let me tell you about the more popular mirrorless lines on the market now, and make a comparison with the Canon 600D.

First, Olympus's mirrorless, Obba's mirrorless, the biggest advantage, I personally think is color. His pen series is a mirrorless and retro appearance, which suits my taste. And the material is also very powerful, and the current EPL3 and EP3 focusing speed has completely surpassed the entry-level SLR.

But ** not powerful. The shape of EPL3 is not good-looking, I personally think ha. EP3 is too expensive.

Second, the Panasonic series you mentioned, g3 and gf3, gf2, and gx1Personally, I recommend you to buy GX1... The GX1 and G3 now focus in seconds...

It is only stronger than the general SLR, and when focusing in the dark, 600D will hesitate, but the GX1 can still focus quickly. In addition, these models of Panasonic are relatively fashionable. All have touch screens, some people say that the override of mirrorless is not as good as that of SLR, but it is not like this.

Because there is a touch screen, such as color temperature fine-tuning, etc., you can directly swipe the screen without pressing buttons like a DSLR, or fluctuating the scroll wheel... Especially in the GX1, when you are on the street, you can directly tap the screen and focus on the pedestrians. That's called a quick ...

Finally, let's talk about G3,,, G3's cost performance is higher than Gx1, there is an additional EVF, and the screen can be flipped as soon as you turn it on. The parallel goods of these two machines are the same, both of which are more than 2800 points. However, the shape of the G3 is biased towards SLR, and the GX1 is biased towards fashion.

If you can accept the form factor of the G3, buy the G3, and if you want to buy something more compact, go for the GX1. A machine with a biscuit head and an x14-42 electric zoom head. **Within 5000 (parallel imports).

ps, because Panasonic's parallel goods ** are too powerful, so it is highly recommended.

Third,Sony's nex,In addition to the shape,Not very powerful (with Sony's pullover),And the focusing speed is not as good as GX1G3,Olympus's EP3,Others,In terms of image quality,Features are stronger than the latter。。。 The key is to have a large picture... **Not powerful, licensed parallel goods, all more expensive.

The 600d format is larger than that of the 4 3 model, and the depth of field can be shallower,。。 In addition, the lens group is relatively large. Other... Ay...

I prefer the GX1 and X14-42 heads as a perfect match!。

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I think we're quite similar, and I started with small cards and then slowly progressed to SLR. Later, I also felt that the SLR was too big and heavy, and it was inconvenient to carry. And the fuselage is too big (I used Fujifilm S5 to accompany Nikon Gold wide angle), passers-by sometimes deliberately avoid it when they see it when they shoot on the street.

Now I also want to change to a smaller one, to change to the kind of entry-level SLR, which is lightweight.

Picture quality, operability, SLR is absolutely better than any card machine, and you also have friends who play SLR, and it is also very good to use the lens when the time comes. But you feel big. Why don't you take a look at buying a second-hand 1000d?

This one is a bit smaller than the 600d, and the quality is very good. (There is news on the Internet, there is a buddy who dropped 1000d into the sea, and was accidentally discovered by a diver a year later, fished up, and the ** in the SD can still be read perfectly、、、 this is too **、、、 the bottom of the sea has been sinking for more than a year、、、.)

I think it's also a good choice to enter high-end cards, and the soft image quality is actually similar to that of the SLR (note that it is the soft image quality, it looks.) ）。But they are easy to carry and shoot at hand, so I think this is the best way to enjoy the shooting.

I usually hold a DSLR, and when I shoot, I always think about the aperture shutter, the depth of field, or something, and I feel a little restricted... Look at these requirements of the landlord, you look at Samsung EX1, I think this machine is more perfect. Flip screen, large aperture, portable card.

Canon that I haven't tried, I've tried the Nikon P7000 at the same level, it's too bad, really. In addition, these machines, the optical viewfinder is really painful... I don't know what to think, so let's get this.

I've tried, and the viewfinder is very small, very difficult to use, and it is too much worse than the traditional sidefinder, almost a decoration, and there is no practicality.

Monoelectric is an emerging product, which is still too immature compared to SLR. Naturally, he has his advantages, but the disadvantages are also very obvious. As you said, in layman's terms, it is "unprofessional, it's not reliable".

Look at the need. If it can meet your needs, the image quality and operability of the single electric are definitely better than those of small cards.

I've used some cards, single batteries, and SLRs, and I feel that the biggest gap is operability. The DSLR is very easy to operate and convenient, and you can control the picture very well, but this requires you to have a lot of experience to control the machine. And the card, almost like a point-and-shoot camera that supports manuals.

You don't need to go to the professional stuff, you just need to know what you want to shoot and press the shutter. Recording, I think this is the essence of photography. There is less single electricity, not much to describe, that is, the advantages and disadvantages are obvious, depending on the demand.

Landlord,I'm the same as you.,I want to shoot something and it's too big a SLR.,May I ask if your G3 is heavy or not? I'm hesitating, if g3 is also not good to carry, I'll gx1. But I want the cost performance of G3!! Asking for advice!!

The G12 character ratio is too poor. To be as small as the card machine. It's almost the same as a single electricity.

Not small imaging is a fraction of a single electricity. 12. It's good to operate, and it's retro, and the others are honestly not good at all.

If it was two years ago, it would have chosen 12, and now it will be completely eliminated.

Of course, everyone's vision and operation style are different, and everyone has hobbies.

In terms of imaging and function, choose Sony's single battery, which is very good.

I'm using the Panasonic LX5 right now

G12 is perfect, I have played film SLR before, digital SLR, now a small G12 is enough to deal with when I go out, of course, complex light environment, night, or play artistic conception, art**, you have to use SLR, even if it is an entry-level SLR, you can shoot well if you use it well**!

DC or choose Canon, if it is about 1500, A4000 is recommended, cost-effective. If you have a good budget, go for the IXUS 240 and IXUS 510 HS. Definitely won't be disappointed.

Good picture quality, of course, is G12,I have all three machines,I feel like it's still G12 is the best,SecondlyP7000,The last high sense is very poor,More than 200, the noise can't be seen。 The G12 has the most detailed image quality, the P7000 is not very focused, and now the firmware has been upgraded. It is recommended that you buy Canon S100, a new product, a large aperture, 24mm wide angle.

**It's also much cheaper now, around 2800.

It feels about the same, the handling LX3 is the worst, but two new machines are recommended, Olympus XZ-1, Canon G1X, especially the latter, absolutely super flagship, but** is also super flagship, its sensor is a little bigger than the mirrorless, and the picture quality is definitely stronger than the above. If you want to shine in low light, you have to have a big bottom.

The accuracy is definitely higher than that of the E5. LX is just the opposite! Why do I feel like I'm shooting with the same accuracy as my Canon DC? It's not at all comparable to a DSLR!

I compared it, it should be about the same, and I didn't feel faster than GH2.

The Canon 5D Mark III is not a notch device with the Panasonic GH4GK.

The 5D3 is the best of the full-frame SLR cameras, and the GH4GK is a 4 3-format device, to make a bad analogy, if the 5D3 is a sedan, the GH4GK is just an old-fashioned scooter. It looks similar and there is a big difference in the actual grade, so there is no need to compare. Because the actual cost of 5d3 is much larger than the cost of the initial purchase, the actual cost of people who buy 5d3 will be greater than 50,000.

GH4GK is a 2016 product with 4K camera function, 5D3 does not, but the new 5D4 already has it. 5D4 is a product just released in September, about 10,000 yuan, which is 10,000 yuan more expensive than 5D3.

Main Differences Between Canon 600D and Canon EOS M3::

The Canon EOS 600D is an entry-level SLR camera with 18 million effective pixels, a maximum shutter speed of 1 4000 seconds, a maximum continuous shooting speed: frames per second, and a DigiC 4 digital image processor; 9 AF points, 63-stop TTL full-aperture metering, built-in flash index of 13.

The EOS M3 is a mirrorless camera: 24.2 million effective pixels, using a DigiC 6 digital image processor, continuous shooting speed up to 1 4000 seconds, a 3-inch 1.04 million pixel reversible touchscreen, Wi-Fi and NFC support, and a built-in flash index of about 5.

Canon SLR cameras can be divided into four grades according to the number of bits of the model:

1. One-digit full-frame SLR, such as: 1D Mark III, 5D Mark III, etc.;

2: The two-digit is the APS-C mid-range SLR, such as: 40D, 50D, 60D, 70D, etc.;

3. The three-digit ones are entry-level SLRs, such as: 500D, 550D, 600D, 650D, 700D, etc.;

4. The four-digit ones are even worse by one grade, such as: 1000d, 1100d, etc.

In this way, if you compare the 600d and 1200d you asked, the 600d must be better than the 1200d.

Overall, the first difference is that 600d has a flip screen, and many times it is very convenient, and the second is workmanship, you 1200d, if you see the real machine, you will understand, the workmanship may be cheap, it is very material-saving, and I personally recommend buying 600d, Canon's 4-digit SLR is not very good.

The Canon SLR series is arranged in a grade that the more digits there are, the lower the grade, and the four-digit or three-digit one grade lower, so the 600D is one grade higher than the 1200D.

1) Discharge the camera completely, make sure the CPU completely reset and remove the battery, turn on the power or use the conductor to short circuit the positive and negative poles of the camera battery room, or remove the battery for a few days.

2) Insert the fully charged battery again.

If it is CPU, the lens will retract and enter the shutdown state.

If the above methods are ineffective, it may be lens movement or other mechanical damage, then you have to change the lens, in fact, sometimes refilling f w may also be repaired, but the repair shop changes and you say that you can charge more money for changing the lens, and you don't know if he has changed the lens, you don't care how he repairs, just how much money you are willing to repair!

It's usually like this after a collision. I had to go to the maintenance department.

Did you fall into the water?

Have you been subjected to a serious external force collision or fall from a height?

To be honest, it can only be said that at this level, it is relatively average, and the image sensor of CCD is not good at imaging in the case of high sensitivity, and there is a lot of noise, but it is just that the quality of the night scene picture taken is average, and it can still be achieved.

It is best to use a tripod to shoot night scenes, then adjust to M mode, reduce the shutter speed, and set it according to the brightness on the screen, generally night scenes need a slow shutter speed, that is, a shutter speed of 1 second or even slower to shoot the starlight effect, in order to avoid the vibration when pressing the shutter, set the shooting mode to 2 seconds timer. The ISO sensitivity is kept as low as possible, otherwise the noise will be high. It is better to open the aperture to the maximum, which means that the f-value is the smallest.

Shooting the stars is probably possible.

It is best to use a tripod to shoot night scenes, then adjust the G12 to M gear, ISO to 80, aperture to F8, reduce the shutter speed, set it according to the brightness on the screen, generally night scenes need a slow shutter speed, that is, a shutter speed of 1 second or even slower to shoot the starlight effect, in order to avoid the vibration when the shutter is pressed, set the shooting mode to 2 seconds timer.