Canon G10, used please enter!

I hesitated for days between the LX3, the P6000 and the G10 before finally making the choice, the G10. When the new machine arrived, the heavy feeling made me completely relieved and felt that I had made the wrong choice. Thinking back to the first time I saw G9's **, it made my eyes light up, and I felt that Xiao DC could produce such a **, what more could I ask for?

At that time, it was rumored that the G10 was going to come out, and it had a wide angle, so the G10 in my mind must be more perfect. So I waited. Now that I've arrived, it's really wide-angled, but the body is bigger, and the CCD squeezes in 14.7 million pixels without change (which is what it has always been criticized for).

In fact, there is no perfect camera, and if you want to play, you don't have to wait for the G11 or G20 anymore, and even if you do, you will still have regrets. It can be said that G10 is the best in the current DC group. LX3, for people with SLR, it may be a portable weapon, it just highlights the features, the aperture and 24mm wide angle are indeed highlights, but you will find that the focal length of 24-60 is really too lame.

What is G10, modest, balanced, atmospheric, that's enough. On portability, LX3 is portable, the lens is retracted, the protruding pig mouth is thicker than the G10, and the portable machine adds a lens cover, what is the convenience at all. In terms of feel control, the LX3 button looks like a copy of the Panasonic mobile phone that has been withdrawn from the market, the body is slippery and does not leave your hand, and it may fall down at any time; The G10's controls are top-notch, making you feel solid and stable when you start, not to mention the tempting mode disk.

As for picture quality, this is also a constant debate, if you have to zoom in to the size of a wall, you may be able to see the difference, but is it necessary? Don't talk about this,As far as intuitive feeling is concerned,LX3Direct out**The picture is generally gray,Like a veil,If it's not clean and translucent after the post-PS,I don't have that idle effort。 The G10's color reproduction is realistic, especially for portraits.

I'm not saying that the LX3 is useless, it's an advantage if you have to shoot landscapes. I'm going to talk about how I've felt in the past week and give it a reference to those who want to buy it. Criticism and correction are welcome.

Fujifilm S1500 and Kodak Z1012 are telephoto machines, which are inexpensive.

Canon G10, large CCD, high pixel and high shutter speed.

Panasonic's LX3, although the optical zoom is small, I heard that it is as cool to use as a DSLR.

The latter two are not.

1. Widen the distance between the subject and the background, that is to say, there should be no other objects around the person, such as standing in an unmanned playground**, then the character is far away from the background (the building at the edge of the playground), and it is better to shoot the background blur.

2. Try to use the 55 mm end, because the 18 end is a wide angle, the depth of field is relatively large, and it is difficult to get out of the background blur. Even if it does, the effect is not obvious.

3. Try to keep the camera close to the object being photographed, which is complementary to the first one. However, most lenses have a minimum focusing distance, so try to get as close as possible to the subject within the allowable range.

**Background bokeh features are as follows:

1. Telephoto. This is the most effective way to blur the background. Whether you're using a wide-aperture lens or not, once your lens focal length reaches 100 or more, it's easy to get a bokeh** by paying a little attention to the distance between the subject being photographed and the background.

2. Large aperture. Theoretically, a wide aperture will provide a shallow depth of field, but a large aperture lens is generally more expensive, and the effect is not as good as that of a telephoto. Of course, telephoto + large aperture works best, but this kind of lens is generally surprisingly expensive.

It's a little difficult on this paper, it is recommended to go to some professional forums, or bubble forums to learn, you can look at the blurred ** parameters taken by others, you try to practice it yourself, feel the changes in the shooting, and then slowly shoot according to your own perspective thinking. In addition, there are often some outdoor shooting activities in our forum, you can participate in more similar activities, and there will be a master on the scene to explain to you in person, and the progress will be faster! What makes perfect!

2.Adjust the aperture to f16 8 or even 22, (depending on the situation, my DSLR is usually set to 16) because this can extend the ** time.

3.Turn the sensitivity (ISO) to the lowest, because this will have the purest image quality, anyway, you have a long time, and you are not afraid of being insufficient.

4.With a manual setting, the longer you set the camera shutter to 4 8 10 15 or even 30 (also as the case may be) the longer the lines of traffic will be.

5.Finally, it is also the most rigid requirement, that is, a tripod, not too good, just buy a Weifeng or something, one hundred and two hundred is enough. Because your machine is small and not demanding.

If you don't use it, the picture will be so colorful that you can't imagine it.