What should I do when making a GUNPLA?

1.The former is better, but there is a certain corrosion of the model.

2.The bottle is marked with F and FX, one is matting and the other is varnish, how to choose depends on LZ's personal preference.

3.The effect of bleeding is better than that of markers, but pay attention to the amount, too much will also corrode the parts; Seepage line with Tamiya's 20 yuan set of face pen can be competent. Of course, LS said that it can be replaced by other pens, which is really expensive.

Seepage, water-based is the best, and finally wipe, the solvent performance is not very good after use, the parts may be blackened, and the Z oil can be cleaned up, but it should be noted that the Z oil is easy to make the parts embrittle, and it should be noted when using.

If you want to seep the line, you don't need such a good pen, you can use a thinner nib, and you can use a few pieces in an art supply store.

Oil paint plus z oil is good, I personally think that as for the pen doesn't matter, the fine brush is on the line, 2-3 yuan, and Tian Miya's, that is bought by rich people.

1. Oil paint with zippo oil is cheap and affordable.

2. Matte and varnish black It depends on whether you like the bright one or not, the solvent is all up to you, and if it is not enough, then buy it.

Supplementary question: Seepage line, you go to a special art store to buy a thin pen on the line, generally have 1-3 pieces of a Tiangong face pen only used to seepage the line is too wasteful. Of course you can.

1. Preparation tools: zippo oil, black paint, thinner, face pen, palette , gundam marker, cotton swab, straw, and one gunpla part.

2. Draw half with a marker pen as a reference.

3. Then mix the paint with enamel paint and dissolving agent, and their ratio is one to three.

4. Dip the paint with a face pen, and then point it into the groove, and the paint will automatically flow along the groove line. If the groove is shallow, it can be deepened with a scriber or pen knife before seeping.

5. After the paint is slightly dry, use a cotton swab dipped in zippo oil to wipe the spilled part.

6. After wiping, the extra zippo oil is sucked off with a paper towel, pay attention to whether it is sucked or not wiped.

7. At this point, the seepage line is completed, and it can be seen through comparison that the seepage line is thin and beautiful.

Gunpla prime, seepage and matting options: Before the water and soil are filled, you should do a good job of sanding and removing the seams, but you don't need to polish it comprehensively, of course, you can continue to polish it after the soil, and when you do GK, you can do it again and again, and it is necessary to make water and soil if you want the pigment to have better color and adhesion.

After the models are assembled, they need to be done seamlessly (i.e., gluing the joints with glue and sanding with sandpaper to eliminate joint lines and drops). Because it's a plain group, you don't need to color it in parts, but if you don't think it's okay, you can use a small part of the Gundam marker to supplement the color (of course, you can use other brands, but the effect is far less than the Gundam mark), and the coloring skills or something won't be said here.

GUNPLA Prime Group Premium Series:

High grade eg1: 144 fg1: 144 hg1:

144 1:60 1:100, TV version 1:

144 , the HGUC series premium series has been a popular product for BANDAI gunpla. It has many members and categories, including EG, HG, HGUC and TV series, and is the most junior and the oldest product in the three levels. By launching an early model, and after X years of groping and development.

In 1990, the first 1:144 RX-78-100 was finally released, and its appearance pushed the development of GUNPLA to a new stage, this model was officially classified as HG (High Grade), which was the first series grading in the history of GUNPLA, and a new model series - HG was officially born.

For the seepage, it is necessary to wipe it off later, and it does not have to be wiped clean when wiping, if it is a little dirty, there will be obvious demarcation, and the color is dark and contrasting. However, the seepage line is more troublesome, with enamel paint, zippo seepage line, for plastic has a corrosive effect, the safer way is to first apply a layer of varnish and then seepage line, and finally on the matte.

For animation, due to the need for the picture, it is 2D, so its lines are clear, and the model is 3D, so its depth effect is given by external light, not deliberately, so the coloring is not to be done like a plane, but to have a texture, this thing has to look at the material, and it is okay to use plastic to make other materials, and the contemptible people will not say it, for the color, it is not a single color contrast, so the color can not be the same as the animation, otherwise you will feel that you are not good-looking, there is no three-dimensional sense, of course, If it's a simple model that requires monochrome, it's different.

But personally, I think it's still necessary to seepage.,The seepage line is more three-dimensional.,If you don't seepage.,Maybe it's closer to animation (2D.)。 In addition, the corners of the model can be deepened a little, just a little, so that there will be a more obvious outline.

Also, you can go to the Gundam Bar, there are a lot of people who have the same hobby, hehe, I hope what I said will help you.

Seepage line can increase the three-dimensional effect, seepage line is divided into 2 kinds, it is relatively simple to use a pen directly, and there is a 1st floor said to use 2 different pigments to seepage the line and finally wipe off the excess place.

Bleed is closer to an animated effect.

Bleed is closer to an animated effect.

No matter how good the color separation is necessary for the bleeding line, it is the same.

Seepage refers to the seepage liquid or the concentration of enamel paint with a face pen on the engraving part, so that the liquid due to the principle of capillary, itself infiltrated into the groove of the engraving line, the advantage of this is that the finished line is very thin, the disadvantage is that some of the shallow and right-angled parts of the carved line to add a deep line.

The advantage is that regardless of whether the line is clear or not, as long as your technique is high enough, you can draw the line, the disadvantage is that the line drawn has no change in thickness, and it is thicker, the so-called big dragon line is drawn by the line pen.

When using seepage liquid, the thread should be infiltrated first, and then sprayed to extinguish after drying.

Drawing a line is to draw it with a pen, and seepage is to flow into the gap by liquid. If you are matting, you should never spray it first.

The bleeding line is semi-automatic, and the hooking line is fully manual. Seep first and then disappear.