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Generally speaking, 100mm is a must-do classic, and 90mm can be regarded as a kind of 100 micro, why is 100 micro so popular? Personally, I think (I've used 90 micro) is because it's mediocre, and you can shoot anything at this focal length, but it may not be very comfortable.
For example, you can shoot portraits but appear slightly longer (APS cameras are even more so), shooting insects is slightly shorter, hanging on the camera is even more long, and if the subject is not determined in a shot (for example, this shoot not only shoots people but also occasionally shoots) will make you change lenses often ......And the telephoto ability of this kind of lens is average - because it is a macro, the focusing accuracy of long distances will not be too high.
But it's still pretty good when it comes to imaging,After all, everyone is very concerned,In terms of the 90 micro I've used,It's really not worth saying from the cost performance,But it's not very commonly used (focal length problem,I'm also an APS machine,It feels really a bit long),In addition, the autofocus can be ignored (the macro head autofocus will more or less pull the bellows,Because the focusing stroke is too long......In telephoto, the focus is often blurred, as is manual focusing, because if you twist it a little bit, you may lose focus.
As for the original Baiwei ......I haven't used it, but I have said that it is good ......Try it yourself.
Personally, I feel that if you are shooting models and are APS cameras and want to make more use of this lens, you should buy 50 micro or 60 micro bar, at least the 50 fixed focus angle of the APS camera is good. As for the good lighting with a longer focal length that some people say, I personally don't think there is much difference - of course, I'm just an amateur, but the focus has been basically around 20mm recently, and I don't feel much different in actual use.
Wide-angle, I've only used 24mm (equivalent) for the widest, so it may not be very helpful - provided you buy ultra-wide - 16mm lenses basically only appear in standard zoom, and the special zoom wide-angle head is basically ultra-......wideI've used 14mm on a 5D rabbit and it feels pretty ......It's a special cow, you want to die, and you have a unique feeling ...... shooting big scenesBut I don't know about everyday life.
To paraphrase the words of the old-timers, it is "macro no weak brigade", so I think you can focus on picking the focal length, 60 micro I see it, it's not expensive, I don't know if you have a better plan. I won't talk nonsense about the wide angle, hehe.
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Nikon's macro is 105VR,**It's about 5800,The 60mm you said is a cost-effective one。 For the wide angle, use the silver wide angle.
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The key to what lens to change is what you want to do, and what are you dissatisfied with with the current lens? For example, if you are not satisfied with the image quality, you can consider 16-85, if you are not satisfied with the focal length, if you feel that the 105 end is shorter, you can consider 18-200 or add a telephoto, and if you are not satisfied with the floating aperture, you can consider B005. The three lenses you proposed are a large zoom touring head, a wide-angle zoom, and a telephoto zoom, which cannot replace each other.
18-200 Whether it is the original factory or the auxiliary factory, the imaging quality is very average, or even inferior to 18-105, such as distortion control at the 18th end, sharpness above 105, etc. Generally suitable for users who have no requirements for image quality, it is really not interesting to change from 18-105 to 18-200, spend 5,000 to change from a dog's head to a more dog's head?
18-35 is known as silver wide angle, because of the low quality so very popular, instead of the sleeve as a general hang head is not impossible (equivalent, as a travel head is also good, but because the wide angle end is also 18, so on the D90 does not occupy the advantage of the viewing angle. If you are not satisfied with the D90 wide-angle end imaging, you can consider this.
70-200 or save money to buy the original factory, Sigma's reputation is not very good, or a small steel cannon (80-200, you can buy second-hand, as long as you are not afraid of sinking.
In fact, it is still recommended to choose 16-85 and Tenglong B005, how to say it? It is more reliable to replace the sleeve.
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Buy 18-35 Don't think about going to the end of the world.
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Your 18-105 focal length is relatively complete, it is recommended to buy a matching original or auxiliary 2x teleconverter on it, install the 2x lens your focal length is 36-400, a new feeling, not a waste of resources and achieve the effect, of course, the aperture has also been reduced by 2 times, but it is generally enough. If there is, it is best to be original.
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18-105 volume and weight is not large, the overall quality of the lens is still quite high, 18-200 is not recommended, and 18-135 The overall quality is low, sharpness, color, and edge image quality are much worse than 18-105. The larger the zoom ratio of the lens, the worse the overall quality of the lens.
Original 16-85 17-55 70-200 Auxiliary 17-50 are all good lenses, and their zoom ratios are not large. The best is the fixed focus, no zoom ratio. Now it's time to know why 18-105 is better than 18-200.
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If you turn the zoom ring of the lens to the 18 end, it will be a 27mm wide angle**. If you feel that the ** shot is not wide enough, then you have to buy a wide-angle lens with a smaller focal length, such as 10-24mm
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1) SLR cameras are not outdated, only to see if the use of functions can meet your daily shooting requirements! (The 90 is now outdated and good value for money).
2) The choice of lens depends on how much money you plan to invest, but do not set the head, it is recommended that you choose a Tamron, this head is an anti-shake lens, constant large aperture with wide angle, sharp imaging, the maximum aperture is available, the deep field effect is good, the disadvantage is that it does not support full frame; Another 50, this head is 50 without a motor, except for the absence of a motor, the rest are the same, more than 1000 yuan cheaper, known as the most cost-effective portrait king.
3) D90 has a body motor, which is suitable for any lens, so you can choose a lens without a motor, and from this point of view, upgrading the lens in the future will reduce a lot of expenses.
4) 18-105 this head I don't feel as miserable as everyone said, I also use 90, usually travel with 105 head is very practical and convenient, if you want to set the machine, you want this 105 set of heads! Don't pick 18-55
Supplement: Photography is a technical job, the quality of the film depends on the level, many masters are still using old machines, and they can also produce good films, even if a rookie like us gives us a 1D, it can't compare to others! Therefore, it is recommended that you learn more and practice more, and don't burn equipment too far!
Hehehe, play slowly, good luck!
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It's not outdated and it's very cost-effective to get it now.
Yes, but the image of this lens is much worse than that of the 18-105.
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That's what I use with the D90, and I've been using it for 1 and a half years. Let's talk about my feelings: in terms of machine positioning, the D90 is actually a mid-range machine.
The D3100 and D5000 are entry-level SLRs, not the same level. According to your requirements, if you don't buy a set of D90, you can choose or. The former has a larger aperture and is more expensive, more than two thousand.
The latter is very cost-effective, only about 700 yuan, and many Nikon users have this head. In addition, for wide angles, Tokina's 12-24 and f4 constant aperture are recommended, which is very close to the original image quality. More than 3000, no matter how cheap it is, there is basically no good wide angle.
Pullovers are not recommended, either 18-105 or 18-55. The imaging is very average, and merchants like to recommend it, because the cost of the sleeve is very low and the profit is very large. Moreover, after buying a set, the merchant actually doesn't worry that you will be dissatisfied with this head in the future, because if you are not satisfied, you will buy it again and toss it again.
For manufacturers, this is beneficial and harmless. In fact, the most cost-effective way is to concentrate financial resources to buy one or two good heads, so as not to waste money by making repeated purchases in the future.
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I'm d90.,I've been using it for more than 4 years.,Wide-angle d90 is inherently restricted.,Personally, I feel like it's just a wide angle to say that a few pullovers are good.,18-55;18-105 performance is good, especially the 18-55 performance of hundreds of dollars, if you have to go with a wide angle, then it is recommended to have a few grades:
1: **Cheap, 18-55 is enough to shoot the scenery.
2: Get a Nikon's 18-35 silver wide angle, D and G can be, the picture quality is extraordinary 3: The residual lens of the auxiliary factory can also be considered: Tamron's 17-50 is good, the ultra-wide is Tuli's 11-16, which is still very good.
4: The budget is enough 14-24 and 16-35 4 The original ones are good choices 5: Tuli 16-28 is still good, but it's a bit niche, the edge picture quality is a little poor, Sanyang manual 14 is also good, the distortion is large, but you can shoot star trails and stars.
A wide-angle lens is a type of photographic lens. A wide-angle lens has a shorter focal length than a standard lens and a wider angle of view than the human eye. In general, a 35mm camera has a wide-angle lens focal length of 28 mm to 35 mm and a field of view between 76 and 64 degrees. >>>More
Lenses with a particularly wide range of angles.
Wide-angle lens. It is a lens with a focal length shorter than a standard lens, a viewing angle greater than a standard lens, and a distance longer than a fisheye lens. >>>More
Medium and low**: 18-35 silver wide angle (cheap and excellent old man), 16-85 (decent, practical and excellent), Tamron 17-50VC (both anti-shake and large aperture, cost-effective), Tamron 10-24 (low price and wider viewing angle than others), Sigma 12-24 second generation (new workmanship and high optical quality), Tokinra 12-24 (decent, well-made), Tokinra 10-17 (taking into account fisheye and ultra-wide angle characteristics, average picture quality). >>>More
When it comes to ultra-wide angles, the first thing that comes to mind is the Sigma 10-20 and the Tokina 12-24, both of which are very good lenses and very cost-effective, and both have their own characteristics, one is wider and has an ultrasonic motor, and the other is better made and has a constant f4 aperture. At present, the price of Sigma lenses has increased for some reason, and Tuli has a slight price reduction, in terms of cost performance, this time Tukina 12-24 won the victory! >>>More
D90 + Tamron 17-50 is a cost-effective classic match.
I once had an old 17-50 with the D70S which was extremely sharp, and then there was obvious out-of-focus on the D90 and D300 bodies. I had to go out with the original D70S. >>>More