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The new ones are definitely more powerful than the old ones. But it will be softer, after all, the latest lens is more technologically advanced, unlike the old one with obvious strip bokeh outside the focal, so stiff, and the focus sound is so loud.
Here are some of the improvements in the AF-S Nikkor 50mm F.
AF-S 50mm Lens – A high-speed prime lens with a standard angle of view (a focal length of approximately 75mm when mounted on a single-lens reflex camera in DX format, equivalent to the 35mm format).
Maximum aperture f
The balanced design achieves high MTF performance and a bokeh effect that feels natural.
The newly developed optical system effectively corrects glare and color distortion.
The Quiet Wave Motor (SWM) ensures smooth, quiet autofocus operation.
Dual focus modes supported—M A (Manual Priority AF) and M (Manual Focus) autofocus operations do not require rotating the focus ring.
The 9-blade circular diaphragm achieves a natural bokeh effect.
Metal lens mount is used.
Although all lens groups move during focusing, the barrel length remains the same.
But the price is also expensive
Personally, I think it's enough to shoot portraits, I don't use them much, and besides, when the aperture is fully open, if the light itself is sufficient, the D60's 1 4000 second shutter speed may not be enough.
If you have money, you can go on it, taking into account various shooting subjects.
The head of the deputy factory is also very good, and it is not very expensive.
You can take a look.
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The analogue, Nikonko, Sigma's 50 is AFS, and the imaging is better than that of the original 50. Also expensive.
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This head is very good, and if you think the focus is exaggerated, if you open the aperture smaller, it will not be exaggerated.
The aperture and focal length should be properly applied, and it is not necessarily necessary that only a good lens can shoot it, the key lies in the person.
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Aperture and focal length are important, and this lens is less convenient and image quality than suitable for general portrait shooting and professional zoom heads
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Friends, level is the most important thing.
With the right application, any focal length and any aperture can be used to take portraits, depending on the subject.
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Looking at your previous words, I think 35 is the most appropriate. The volume, weight, motor, image quality, and all aspects of this head can fully meet you. As for you saying that some people say that it is less than 50. Hehe, now I'm telling you it's better than 50.
There are three reasons: first, it comes with a focus motor (faster response After all, it is a motor specially made for this lens Different from the fuselage focus motor The lens is different Of course, the motor cannot be generalized, so the built-in motor is the best choice rather than the fuselage transmission).
Second, 35mm is wider than 50mm. Don't underestimate this 15mm, it's very important, multiply the DX by Nikon's DX format), 35 is equivalent to a full 50 (a well-deserved header), the angle of view is wider, and it can better adapt to the environment, such as indoor shooting.
Thirdly, the 35 has been digitally optimized (no one may mention this, but it has certainly been optimized) The era of the 50 is still the era of film.
Fourth, 35 to 50 new out of anything new is always better than old.
But seeing that you actually have the intention of changing the D60 to the D90, I strongly recommend that you change the machine after the change.
The benefits are as follows. 1.All Nikkor lenses are fully autofocusing, and many of the Nikkor D-heads are low-cost and sufficient, as can be seen from the fact that 50 is nearly 2000 cheaper than 50.
The viewfinder coverage, the focus module sensitivity, and the number of focus points are all much, much better than the D60.
There is a shoulder screen, just like that, taking 2000 shots with a full charge of the D90 is not a problem. What about d60? You know it yourself.
There is a trump card function **Shooting, although it can't be autofocused, but the image quality is still there. Cow. Children can leave a beautiful moment with ** shoot more can not autofocus just shoot with a small aperture, ** are all focus What are you afraid of?
The light is not enough, ISO direct hit 1600 D90 high sense is very affordable!
Enter the D90 to buy a set of 18 105VR, this head is worth buying. A very good leader (under this **, don't talk about 1685, that's a few times it) If you want to accompany a fixed focus I recommend remember that it is d.
Buy now estimated at 6900 (d90 sets) + 2000 (50 mainland licensed goods with tickets) = 8900
Out of the d60 estimated 2500 people robbed. Converted to 6400 yuan, you can enter D90 or tourist scenery, portraits, night scenes, macro sketches, can make up a set of hands.
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Lower the ISO, adjust to 400, hold it near the window to use natural light, use white foam board for lighting, and use the aperture as wide as possible (close one stop), if you can't reach the safety shutter, please use a rack. Small children should not use flash.
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Got 35 is the most suitable. The volume, weight, motor, image quality, and all aspects of this head can fully meet you. As for you saying that some people say that it is less than 50. Hehe, now I'm telling you it's better than 50.
There are three reasons for this
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The image quality of the d60 is better than that of the d80, and you don't have to regret it 35 18 This lens is quite good and optimized for digital cameras It is said on the Internet that it is not as good as 50 18 That's sour grapes.
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108 Portrait artifact, of course, the larger the aperture, the better.
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Since D60 is an APS-C format DSLR, there is a problem of converting 35mm focal length, D60 is to be multiplied by multiplier, that is, 18mm focal length to D60 is 27mm. You can't use a wide angle for portraits, it's best to use AF 50mm F or AF 50 F, and if you can wait, you can go up to AF-S 50mm F, which can autofocus. The AF 35mm F/2 can also be considered, which is mounted on the D60 as a header, but the advantage of a large aperture is not visible.
50 is 700 and 50 is about 1900. 35 2 is about the same as 50.
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The above friends said that the 50 fixed focus cannot autofocus on the D60 bodyless motor. ,Nikon has a new prime portrait king that can be focused on D60,AFS50 **It has been on sale in big cities such as Beijing and Shanghai around 4000,It's best to shoot portrait focus,Because D60There is no body motor,The lens that can shoot a good portrait with a large aperture depends on very few,
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The cheapest,**700 or so, large aperture, fixed focus.
Other. Buy macro, 60mm, 105mmvr, all very good.
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nikkor 85/50mm
50mm 85/
The most cost-effective is definitely this 50mm
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1. Nikon 50 700 Yuan 50 1800 Yuan 85 2500 Yuan On the D60, you can only focus manually. Practice your hands, experience a large-aperture portrait head, it is recommended to lose a 50 700 yuan, which is cheap enough.
2. Tamron 28-75 with motor version) 2900 yuan or so, constant aperture, this focal length is most suitable for shooting portraits, compared with the original lens of the same specification, the cost performance is super high.
3. Sigma 30 parallel goods 2500 yuan, Sigma 50 parallel goods 3000 yuan, aperture, shooting portraits, beautiful background blur, Sigma 50 has 77 large aperture, imaging super original!
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If the requirements are not high, it is equipped with AFS18-105, and AFS35, the former can be eaten from far and near, the wide-angle end can shoot large scenes, and the telephoto end has a good bokeh for portraits; The latter's wide aperture allows for a small depth of field, both of which are inexpensive.
If you have high requirements, you can match AFS 50 or AFS 70-200 VR II (small bamboo cannon second generation). Needless to say, the former is about 3000. The latter two are the two of the big three, the symbol of professionalism, but each is more than 10,000 yuan.
If you are required to the extreme, you can match AFS85, wide-angle medium telephoto and large aperture, more than 10,000 each, and of course, you have to buy a body above D700 to match them.
Aside from the AF50 or something, you can't autofocus on the D60 unless you have a deep manual focus.
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, cost-effective; , very cost-effective.
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D60 is better not to be equipped with a high-end head, it can't play to its advantages.
Shoot landscapes, take portraits, zoom 16-85 is fine.
Also available 18-3585
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1. When the shutter value is adjusted to 1 200 or more, most of the films that come out are completely black.
It's a matter of flash sync, so it's good to set the shutter value below 1 200.
With the external flash as the main light source, the camera's built-in light meter is useless, and the ** mode must be set to M gear. Metering mode and ** compensation are useless.
The shutter is set to 1 200 and the aperture is set to f8 or 11 (the optimal aperture for most lenses). If it's too bright or too dim, you can adjust the output of the flash. The light is about 2 meters away from the person.
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There is no fixed parameter for this, a reference value should be determined according to the parameters of the lamp and the actual situation, and then the actual value should be determined by the test shot.
Generally, the shutter speed of 1 60 seconds is relatively safe, most flashes are suitable, if you can use 1 125 seconds is better (the equipment should be supported), too fast is not very reliable, maybe the light has not flashed the shutter before it has begun to close.
Next, you can try to determine the aperture value, first use an aperture value to test the shooting (fixed shooting distance), see the actual effect and then adjust; Sometimes the aperture adjustment range is exceeded, and the shooting distance can be changed.
Generally, the softbox is meters away from the person, and the light at close range is flatter and harder, and the light will be softer at a distance.
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D60The maximum flash synchronization speed is 200th of a second This is the limit of the focal plane shutter used in the 135 SLR There is no way Only to control it by light and aperture You are posing for the specific parameters Try it slowly.
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This thing needs to be adjusted by yourself, and there is no one The value is fixed and can be used, because according to the change of light and the change of the scene, these values must be changed, so it is recommended that the landlord shoots with a file and slowly ponders it himself, and the m file is more troublesome It is not recommended for novices to use it, it is recommended to read the manual first and understand it in shooting.
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How do you say this, only try it yourself, most of what you said is completely black, and being blocked is caused by the flash out of sync, you can solve it by setting the flash in the manual!
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It's done with the P file. Shutter 1 60, ISO200 when I usually use a flash. Turn up the aperture and take a shot until you see the image you're happy with.
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Upstairs is really harmful, it's all manual focus, and it's exhausting. Let's get on the AF-S 50mm. Placed on the D60, it is equivalent to a 75mm vision.
You can make do with it. In the future, the upgrade will definitely be complete, and it can be used as a header if you keep it. The best of both worlds.
**3200 or so now.
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Hehe, don't think about it now, Nikon has 50 AF-S, D60 can be autofocused, licensed **1500I'm also a d60 and I'm about to get one, but it doesn't seem to have arrived yet.
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Big brother, let's af 50. We don't have the same focus as the motor, which is great!!
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Nikon 50 , 700 yuan or so package you are satisfied, if the aperture is too small, it will be about 50 2000 yuan.
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Let's get a straight answer to the nail on the head 50-200mm 1000 or so.
Xiaobai can also shoot like a photo studio!
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You get what you pay for, you want to be **cheap, you can only be AF 50
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The good head of the original factory for shooting portraits can't autofocus on the D60, the new AFS50, not yet on the market, only Sigma's 50 can autofocus and the imaging is better than the original existing D-type 50 head, **4000 or so.
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Because you didn't make it clear about the shooting situation at that time, is every ** red? Or are there a few of them once in a while? Or which lens will be used to fix it? It has to be analyzed on a case-by-case basis.
1。There's a problem with your white balance settings. This should be the more common one, and if you turn the white balance very high in sunlight, it will be reddish, especially for flashes, and you should never use auto-balance when using flash!!
Remember!!! This is because the auto white balance camera ignores the color temperature of the flash and uses the color temperature of the background as the color temperature. The solution is to set the white balance to "flash".
2。If there are only a few photos with this kind of scene occasionally, the reason is probably because you use the built-in flash to flash directly at the person, which is not very desirable, because the person's ** will show the congested side under direct flash, so it looks reddish. The solution is to buy an external flash, which can be much better from the side and back, and you can give it a try.
3。There's something wrong with your camera. If you've checked all of the above, then it's the worst-case scenario
Your camera has an inherent, insurmountable problem, it may be that the CCD itself loves to turn red, or it may be that there is a problem with the camera's internal system, which cannot be solved by simply changing the shooting method, the only way is to take the camera back to a dealer, and never try to open the camera yourself!
If you still have any questions, welcome to raise or not.
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