How do you make a tank model??? How did the Tiger tank model come out

First of all, look at the various parts of the drawing, the components of the tank: roughly speaking, there are four parts: track, hull, turret and artillery. Among them, the barrel part is the easiest to make, and the body part is more troublesome. A basic understanding of the tank infrastructure can be started.

Since the car body is the most difficult to do above, let's do it first! We must first be clear about how large the model we want to make, and then cut it according to the length of the chopsticks, generally 15cm is appropriate, the size is appropriate, too big to look bulky, not flexible enough.

Use a knife to cut off the thicker end of the chopsticks, the length is about 3cm, about 60 on one side, (depending on your own situation), and then use a ruler to line up in a row, apply glue within the gap, and connect end to end after a little drying, and connect together, so that the track on one side is completed, and the other side is like this.

Then we can do the chassis part of the tank, measure the length with the chopsticks that were not used just now, and then cut it off again, about 10cm, so that with the tracks on both sides, the body part of the tank will reach about 16cm. The chassis part can be made into a solid one, which makes it look textured ......

Again, these chopsticks of equal length are cut off and glued in a row, the length is shorter than the track, remember not to be flush or equal to the track. Repeat this operation, lay out the things made with these chopsticks layer by layer, three to four layers of height is appropriate, and then glue it firmly with the two tracks on one side and put it aside for later use.

The body is completed, and the next thing is the turret part, which is the same as the chassis part, but the chopsticks that are truncated this time are shorter, about 5-6cm, slightly shorter than the width of the body, and the bamboo row is stacked together in three layers, glued, and then a short chopstick head is placed horizontally in front of this trapezoidal piece, and a complete long chopstick is removed, so that the short chopstick head is pressed against the larger end of the long chopsticks. The bottom can be padded slightly, find a fixture to stabilize the barrel, and finally apply glue, and wait for a little air dry before removing the fixture.

The turret and the body are coated with glue and firmly glued together, and here, almost ninety-five percent of the work is completed, and if you look closely, you will find that the body at this time is bare except for a turret, and then we can use your creativity, and you can use chopsticks to make an anti-tank missile in the back, and the signal antenna ......

Once this general work is done, you can add a few things on it to add the icing on the cake! The above methods are only for beginners' reference, and the specific situation has to be changed temporarily.

- -I'm helpless about the landlord's problem.

First of all, the model is made by hand, and according to the level of technology, some people will only be in the prime group (simply glued, do nothing) The better technology will choose to color, but it may not do any effect, such as aging, battle damage, paint loss, etc., the masters will consider doing the above effects, can show the situation of the tank in wartime, etc., almost close to the real performance, if the details are in place, it can be reflected, so a model that is quite good is a work of art in my opinion, not a toy, However, all models, whether large, small, 1 to 35, 1 to 72, are made manually, except for those that are commercially available and mass-produced by machines.

Metal etching pieces look at the needs, and sometimes in order to imitate them to the extreme, etching sheets will be chosen, especially metal barrels and tracks. The texture is still completely different.

Steel plates, sledgehammers, chainsaws, welders, coatings.

How to make a tank car from scrap tires.

It's a hassle. If it is better without a power system, just make a shell.

I've done one before, it's just the kind that only looks like it, and I can't move it, so I'll talk about the process I did, and I hope it will be useful to you.

It is mainly divided into five parts: the suspension part, the turret and gun barrel part, the car base, the roof shell and the external armor plate part.

First of all, you need to calculate the approximate number of parts you need for each part, and how many dimensions each part needs (for the size of about 80 centimeters, you need to be accurate to 1 mm, the smaller the parts need to be more accurate, otherwise it will be too difficult to assemble.) Pay special attention to the precision when cutting).

Then modular assembly, one by one, from the inside to the outside, must be assembled at large angles, adding additional templates or other fixable objects at the inner corners (if not added, the module may be deformed or inaccurate, resulting in unacceptable assembly).

Finally, there is the module assembly.

It is recommended to make a model with a thin hard paper first, and then disassemble it, stick each part to the wooden board, and then cut it, so that the accurate performance is guaranteed, and it is better to use wood glue and waxy all-purpose glue when assembling.

What kind of plank? Boards that are too rough are even problematic to paint. Second, the track part!

The most disgusting part of the suspension system is the tracks, I don't know how to do it, anyway, I can only honestly carve molds and injection mold them, if I use wooden boards, I don't think (only my opinion) can do it. However, if you make a large percentage of tanks (1:6), it is still possible to do it.

In general, I don't know if it's appropriate for some methods. If you don't pursue the internal structure, just like making a ship, build the keel in multiple sections (it is very clear to search for some articles on the production of ship models), and then roughly build the surface and polish it for details. The key to this is from coarse to fine, and the general structure must be stabilized before fine processing can be carried out.

Some delicate but uncomplicated parts can be sliced into pieces of the part structure, and each piece is made of wooden planks and then built (i.e., completed).

Also, if you must use wooden boards, you should coat a layer of varnish to prevent moisture, paste a layer of soil on the surface, and then polish it to color.

The most important thing is to find a full range of information before starting construction, draw a rigorous structural drawing, and construct according to the drawings. Otherwise, it will not be good to take it for granted in many places, and the angle and size of the parts will be greatly deviated.

In other words, a fine tank cannot be made of pure wooden planks. If you don't pursue fineness, I didn't say) such as engine cooling net, wood is impossible to make, then you have to collect some gadgets that are not usually used for waste use, copper wire, iron sheet or something. All very useful!

If you have any questions, go to the model and take a look, it's very helpful!

Happy making.

The handicraft master uses pieces of cardboard to make tank models, which is more fun than the toys he buys, and he is so talented.

1. I use Tamiya water-based paint to color (hand painting is best not to use oily, that smells big), the color should be adjusted down by yourself, many colors feel dark, such as German gray needs to be added to the white tone, slightly diluted with anhydrous alcohol, too thick paint affects the details, and the pen marks are obvious, if you do not use water to fill the soil before coloring, the first color will be uneven, don't wait for the second layer. Stickers after completion.

2. The first step of old-fashioned staining and washing can be diluted with oil paint with zippo oil or kerosene (bought in a lubricating oil store) (as thin as possible) with a pen, in order to penetrate into the gaps, wipe while painting, otherwise it will not be wiped off when it dries, and do not let the plane be stained with obvious blocky traces.

3. Wait for the stains to be washed and dried, generally for a day or two, and then there is a point of rust, you can use a sponge dipped in oil paint to get it little by little, pay attention to the distribution of paint rust on the actual tank, and look at the location of the paint off other people's excellent works, generally using black brown, reddish brown, and yellow-brown.

4. Filter, generally used to simulate water marks and rust, use white, brown, yellow and other oil paint paints to point on the vertical plane of the tank with a brush, like a sika deer, and then immediately use a flat-headed brush dipped in kerosene to brush from top to bottom, the traces of the flow should be shallow, do not make it like a zebra, it can be carried out many times.

5. The mud of the track can be mixed with water using mig soil or pastel.

First spray water to fill the soil, and then use Tiangong water-based paint or gunshi oil-based paint to spray the required color, if it is camouflage, please spray in order from light to dark, after the completion of the water paste, old can be diluted with oil paint after the pen paint, or with an airbrush to do the old, this depends on the effect of the need, and finally spray matte protective paint.

Water soil can be sprayed with Tamiya cans, paint can be Tamiya water-based or gunshi oily, it is recommended that Junshi oily, but because of toxicity and odor, it is necessary to do a good job of protection and ventilation, as for what color it depends on what model to do, this can not be said, there will be a color number description on the manual.

As for the skills, there are a lot of them on the Internet, and I can't understand one or two sentences, but you can learn them online when you encounter them in practice.