How easy is it to make a taxidermy of leaves and flowers?

1. Material selection, the leaves are generally older, the leaf veins are harder, such as the leaves of magnolia flowers, and the appearance is relatively good-looking, and it is best not to wither.

2. The easiest way to remove the mesophyll is to soak it in water until the mesophyll rots, change the water every once in a while, and occasionally brush the rotten mesophyll with a toothbrush or other small brush. This process takes quite a long time, and you can add some corrosive detergent (laundry detergent). And be careful not to brush off the tender veins.

3. After the mesophyll is completely removed, the leaves can be dried, and pigments can be used to dye them for beauty.

4. Gluing. For leaves such as maple leaves, there is no need to remove the mesophyll, just use a hygroscopic paper clip to absorb the water for a while to keep the red color of the maple leaf.

If you use flowers, generally use some dried flowers that can retain the color. The main thing is to ensure the shape and color of the flower. The simplest is to turn the flowers into dried flowers, flatten them, and glue them.

The above are the most primitive methods, and they are generally used to make bookmarks after gluing. I hope it can be used as a reference.

Put the leaves or petals you collect in the book, the thicker ones can be lit with a layer of toilet paper first, which can be more absorbent, and can also prevent the book from being soiled, and the book samples should be placed in a ventilated place, otherwise the book will crepe.

Just press the leaves you want flat into a book or something that absorbs water.

How to make leaf specimens: heavy pressing, wax paper preservation, microwave oven, silica gel, desiccant, etc.

1. Heavy object pressing

Choose a leaf with a relatively low moisture content, flattened, and thinner, fold it into a sandwich-like structure with a newspaper, clamp the leaves into the newspaper, then select some of the heaviest books to press on it, and then put it in a dry place, after about 1 week, the leaves are dry and not rotten, and wait about 2 weeks for it to be made.

2. Store on wax paper

Choose a thin leaf with low moisture content and no curl, sandwich the leaf between two pieces of wax paper, then put it on a rag, then take another old rag and put it on top, use the weight of the iron itself to press on the upper rag for about 4 to 5 seconds, after the wax paper melts, wait for the wax paper to cool.

3. Use a microwave oven

Choose fresh and soft leaves, sandwich each leaf between 2 paper towels, spray water evenly on the paper towels, and heat in the microwave for 30 seconds, repeating several times until the leaves are dry.

4. Use silicone

Choose moist and soft leaves, evenly spread a silica gel layer about 4 cm thick in the container, then spread the leaves on the silica gel, completely cover the leaves with the same 4 cm thick silica gel, and put them in the microwave for 2 minutes.

5. Use desiccant

Pour a layer of desiccant into the sealed box, put the leaves into the sealed box, pour in the desiccant, bury the leaves completely, and close the sealed lid.

2. Find a hydrangea leaf, which has just grown in spring, and it would be better if it was elder, because there is less water.

3. Clip the leaves into the book and close them.

4. Put it in the microwave.

5. Set for 1 minute.

6. When the time is up, take out the book, it is hot, and I feel some heat, dissipate the heat and open it.

7. The leaves have turned yellow, thinned, and hardened, turning from fresh leaves into leaf specimens that can be preserved for a long time.

How to make a leaf specimen:

First, the beating method.

The veins made by this method are generally leathery leaves, which are relatively easy to collect. Common ones such as osmanthus leaves, magnolia leaves, etc. After harvesting, the leaves are put into a boiled 5 10 KOH solution and boiled together in a 5 10 KOH solution.

In the process of boiling, it is necessary to constantly stir with a glass rod to make the leaves evenly heated, and generally boil until the leaves become tea leaves, and then take them out and put them in clean water to wash off the lye. Use a half-used toothbrush to tap the leaves vertically on the table, using the force according to how well the leaves are cooking. When tapping, the toothbrush must be perpendicular to the leaf, especially near the midrib, as it will crack if you are not careful.

Both sides of the front and back should be knocked to the ground, after the mesophyll is knocked out, put it in clean water and wash it gently, gently tear off the tissue on the back of the leaf, and then gently scrub the mesophyll on the leaf vein with your thumb and index finger in the water, and use light force to prevent the main vein from splitting, if there is still some that cannot be washed off, you can continue to knock with a toothbrush until the mesophyll is washed off.

If this does not remove the mesophyll, it can be placed in the lye solution to continue the corrosion until the mesophyll can be completely cleaned. After cleaning, it can be dried and flattened with absorbent paper. At this point, the shape and distribution of the veins are clear at a glance.

Second, the water flushing method.

The veins made in this way are generally paper leaves, such as magnolia leaves, bauhinia leaves, and soybean leaves. The method of leaf selection and corrosion is the same as above. After washing off the lye in clean water, it is spread on a fine wire mesh, washed on the tap tap, after most of the mesophyll is washed away, put it in clean water to tear off the tissue on the back of the leaf, and then rinse it clean, or you can use a brush to gently wash off the mesophyll in clean water.

If this type of leaf is made by hammering, it is easy to separate or break the midrib, and the success rate is very low.

3. Water soaking method.

This method is used for leaves such as coral leaves, i.e., French holly leaves, large-leaved boxwood leaves, and privet leaves, which cannot be quickly corroded by high temperatures, but can only be allowed to corrode slowly under natural conditions. The collected leaves are put into a 5 15 koh solution and allowed to corrode the mesophyll at room temperature. Generally, it is about two weeks in summer and longer in winter until the mesophyll can be removed with a brush or soft brush.

The veins made by the above method are the first specimens, and the specimens corroded with lye are orange-yellow. If bleaching is required, the leaf veins can be bleached by putting them into 30 levels of hydrogen peroxide or 10 pieces of bleaching powder. Once completely bleached, remove with tweezers, blot and put into your favorite staining solution for staining.

When it is completely dyed, take it out, blot it with absorbent paper and flatten it.

1.Look for leaves with thicker leaves and thicker veins.

2.Boil the leaves in alkaline water for a while.

3.Mix the rosin and pigment together and stir, stir well, apply it to the veins with a paintbrush, and dry it.

4.Flatten the leaves and press them into an old book or paper towel to allow the paper to absorb the moisture from the leaves, and the leaves will become flat and dry.

Beautiful leaf specimens are made and can be used as bookmarks, decorations, or for DIY leaf vein paintings.

Extension: There are two main types of insect specimens that can be prepared: needle insertion and liquid immersion.

Generally, the needle insertion method is used to make specimens.

If you need to make an insect ecological box, you can also arrange the insect specimens and dried plants, flowers and plants in the same glass cover, or in other art frames.

After the needle is inserted, the insect after needle insertion must also be adjusted locally according to the most correct posture of the insect, such as the position of the wings, the curvature of the insect feet, the elongation direction of the antennae, etc., so that it has the same posture as the live insect.

Method of preparation of leaf specimens: pressing method.

Prepare a wooden specimen clip, and when pressing, the head and tail of the specimen should be reversed from time to time. In order to facilitate the rapid drying of the specimen and preserve the intrinsic color, the hot straw paper can be changed once or twice a day about the second or third day after pressing. After the specimen is pressed, it is nailed to a piece of tough white paper with a needle and thread, and a label is attached to the lower right corner, and then it is loaded into a specimen cabinet with some camphor to prevent insects.

1. Collection. It is required to be representative and typical, with intact, no mutilation, and no insect pests.

2. Finishing. The collected leaf specimens are placed on absorbent paper and arranged so that the branches and leaves are stretched and kept in a state of self-recklessness.

3. Flattening, ridge shelter and drying.

This is the key link. Lay several layers of absorbent paper on each layer of the specimen clip, put a copy of the specimen, and then fix the specimen with a specimen clip, tie it with a rope, and place it in a ventilated place. In order to speed up the drying of the specimen, the paper should be changed in time every day to allow it to dry thoroughly.

4. Mounting (table paper).

Binding refers to the binding of plant leaf specimens on a piece of cardboard (table paper). There are many ways to attach plant wax leaves to table paper, using small strips of paper, tape, thin thread or paste. When binding, the position of the cherry eggplant specimen should be appropriate, and any part should not be exposed, and it should be directly pasted with glue.

Write the name of the specimen underneath the leaf. Finally, it can be glued.

1. Choose newly fallen leaves or damp fallen leaves with good shape. Place each fallen leaf in a single layer, do not pile up the leaves, and add a piece of paper to lay it out.

2. Press a heavy book against the leaves. Put a few sheets of blotting paper or paper towel in the middle of the two contact surfaces, or you can directly stuff the leaves and oranges into the middle of the book to press.

3. Check the condition of the leaves after seven days, the leaves should be in a dry state, if they are not completely dry, continue to press for a few days. Tips: Plant specimens should not be exposed to the sun, as they are prone to discoloration.