When did surfing originate? What is the principle of surfing

Surfing began in Australia, because Australia is surrounded by the sea, the climate is warm, more sunshine and less rain, which is conducive to the development of water sports, so Australians are particularly fond of surfing. Long before the Europeans settled, the indigenous people here used to float in canoes to the sea, and suddenly rushed up to the crest of the wave with a flat boat, and suddenly slid to the valley of the wave, which was the predecessor of surfing.

There is also a theory about the origin of surfing: surfing originated in the Hawaiian Islands, the world's surfing resort in the late sixties, in June 1970, the world's first windsurfing board with universal joints was designed and manufactured by Hughwans, a surfing enthusiast computer technician in the United States, and obtained a patent.

Back in 1778, the British explorer JCaptain Cook had seen this activity in the Hawaiian Islands. After 1908, surfing spread to some countries in Europe and the United States. After 1960, it spread to Asia. Near.

In the past two decades, surfing has developed greatly, and large-scale surfing competitions have been held in North America, Peru, Hawaii, South Africa and the eastern coast of Australia.

Surfing is an ancient culture of Polynesians. Their chieftain is the best rider in the tribe and has the best surfboards made from the best trees. the ruling class and have the best beaches and boards; The general class of people were not allowed to enter their beaches, but the people could be promoted to these privileges through good surfing skills.

The earliest European sightings of surfing were recorded in Tahiti in 1767 by Dolphin's crew. Later, when Lieutenant James died of Captain Cook in 1779, the art of surfing was recorded in Captain Cook's journal.

Surfing is a sport that lives in Polynesians, just like it is in the Western world today. It has influenced Polynesian society, religion, and mythology. Polynesian chieftains used their stunts on the waves as a symbol of their prestige.

Decades after Cork discovered the game, the sport was popularized in California, USA, and is now popular in Hawaii, North America, Peru, Australia and South Africa, and has become a world-class surfing championship.

A water sport in which athletes stand on a surfboard or ride the waves with a belly, kneeboard, inflatable rubber pad, rowing boat, kayak, etc. Regardless of the type of equipment used, athletes must have high skill and balance, as well as be good at swimming long distances in wind and waves.

Surfing is wave-driven and takes place on the seashore where there are windy waves. The height of the waves should be about 1 meter, and the minimum should not be less than 30 centimeters. The Hawaiian Islands have year-round surfing waves, especially in winter and spring, which come from the North Pacific Ocean and can reach up to 4 meters and allow athletes to glide more than 800 meters.

As a result, the Hawaiian Islands have always been the world's center for surfing.

Hail refers to the wind causing the waves to surge, and the gravitational effect of the sea water tries to restore the sea surface to a calm state, so the water particles begin to squeeze each other, creating pressure inside the sea, and the water and the waves are in a pure step movement to transfer energy. When the waves gradually approach the surfboard, turn the board in the same direction as the waves, slide as hard as you can, catch up with the speed of the waves, the surfboard and the water form an angle, and the pressure generated at the bottom can make the surfboard move quickly on the surface. <

The principle of surfing:The sea breeze transfers energy to the waves, causing the waves to surge, and the gravitational force of the sea water tries to restore the surface of the sea to a calm state, so the water particles begin to squeeze against each other, creating pressure inside the sea, and the water moves in sync with the waves, transferring the energy. When the waves gradually approach the surfboard, turn the surfboard in the same direction as the waves, slide as hard as you can, catch up with the speed of the waves, the source of the surfboard is matched with the water to form an angle, and the pressure generated at the bottom can make the surfboard travel quickly on the surface.