Ask me about the GUNPLA angel question

If you are not familiar with it, it is recommended not to change it, or it will really be "war damage". It is recommended that you still have a deluxe version, because if you don't want to pretend to be war-damaged, you can also sell the battle-damaged parts, although you may lose ten or twenty yuan, but it is better than breaking it. And the war-damaged parts are still good.

As for phosphors, they need to be in a slightly darker place to show the effect. But on the knee joints and those scotch tapes (just those exia wires), it works well. However, it is still recommended that you use fluorescent stickers, 5 yuan a piece, the shape is cut by yourself, and you can tear it off if you don't want to use it.

Show you the renderings.

In fact, it will be easier for you to install LED by yourself than to buy a luminous sticker directly.

And the effect is very good, ** is only a few dollars a very cost-effective.

There's space, I've changed it, but I want two LEDs before and after, because the front and back are not passable.

I only did the latter one and it felt good.

Energy Angel,Noble Angel,Lord Angel,Virtue Angel (Celestial Generation),Seraphic Angel,Wisdom Angel,Fallen Angel (Heavenly Second Generation),Right Angel,Block Angel No. 123 Machine (Trinity of Heaven and Man),There is also a secret angel in the Gaiden who has a model but a white model (that is, it is to color it yourself.,It can be installed on any of the machines of the second generation of heaven and man.,HG semi-movable) There is also an avalanche energy angel.,In addition to the secret angel, there are HG and 1 100 (TV's and MG are very different).

All out of the HG (Secret Angel FG), except for the Flying Wing Zero Gundam changed to the W series, the others are all 00 series. Only the Flying Wing Zero Gundam has been changed, and the angel has been able to go out of MG

Sit back and wait for the model out of the RG Angel series!!

Hello! 1.Angel ......Is it a zero-type flying wing change?

2.If it is seamless, the Tamiya glue of the ordinary white Wu book source color cover can be coped: apply some glue on both sides of the clamp structure, and then see that there will be a layer of glue squeezed out of the seam when the parts are connected, at this time, don't care, wait for half a day (winter) or cavity hours (summer) after grinding.

It is recommended to use a gesture pen knife to cut off some solidified glue, and then use 800, 1000, 1200 sandpaper in turn

Some parts of the wings of the version of the shedding (zero flying wing change) are made of PVC, so it is recommended to cut them with a pen knife, so be careful

Above, I hope it helps you!

Hello! 1.Angel ......Is it a zero-type flying wing change?

2.If it is seamless, the ordinary white lid of Tamiya glue can be coped: apply some glue on both sides of the clamp structure, and then see that when you connect the parts, there will be a layer of glue squeezed out of the seam, at this time, don't care, wait for half a day (winter) or hours (summer) to polish.

It is recommended to use a pen knife to cut off some solidified glue first, and then use 800, 1000, 1200 sandpaper in turn

Some parts of the wings of the version of the shedding (zero flying wing change) are made of PVC, so it is recommended to cut them with a pen knife, so be careful

Above, I hope it helps you!

Angel ......Which model are you talking about?

If you want to do it, you can buy a bottle of green cap glue, dip some on the seam of one part, then attach another part, and then squeeze it hard. Note: Be sure to make the glue squeeze out.

After the glue is dry, polish it with 800 sandpaper, and then use 1000 and 1200. After sanding, polish it with sanding paste, and it's OK.

You can also use soil to fill the joints, but the soil and seams are only suitable for spraying the party... I won't introduce it to the Su Group Party here.。。

You can also make up with 502+ talcum powder, but I don't understand the specific steps.

I usually use green cap glue to make up.

Is it seamless?

In fact, both of the above can be said;

In the case of the prime group, Midorigai Tamiya. Orange cover. White cover glue is all feasible. (Seamless principle is the same).

The green cap is relatively more fluid.

If you use a white cover. Orange cover. Glue both sides of the two parts to be combined. Then combine and squeeze hard, and it is best to have a rubber band to fix the parts immediately after gluing;

If you use a green cover. First, leave a little seam in the fake combination of parts, and then drip the glue between the seams at a certain distance. Then after coating, squeeze the assembled parts vigorously;

Note: Be sure to squeeze out a little white glue, if there is no or very little disassembly and reapply the glue.

The above is a seamless basic processing. If you want to fill the soil, you really need to paint and spray.

However, toothpaste can also be used to fill the soil. Tamiya's plastic model special filling-.-

Be careful to fill it a little higher, as it will be slightly concave after drying.

In addition to the above, you can also use an instant adhesive (instant adhesive), but be careful not to stick to ** when using it.

The practice is the same as the above, depending on how liquid the instant glue is. In addition, if the seam is small, it can also be directly patched with instantaneous glue, which saves effort and time, but it is convenient to make up the soil with plastic in terms of polishing

Then you have to wait for the glue to dry before sanding the parts. After that, apply the sanding paste. From coarse to fine.

Seamless treatment can be done with a pen knife to remove the water nozzle first, then polish the original nozzle with sand and then choose to use seamless glue or AB mixed glue to process.

The use of seamless glue is to merge two parts into a small slit, dip a toothpick into a small slit and drop seamless glue into a small slit to merge the parts. Once dry, use a sand pin to remove the exposed seamless glue.

The use of AB mixed glue is to extrude an appropriate amount of glue, and then use a tool (tweezers and the like) to fill the glue at the intersection of parts, and then squeeze the two parts to make the two parts completely combined.

Seamless glue is suitable for primary, plain assembly. AB Adhesive Mix is suitable for assembling in pursuit of quality. The effect must be ab good, but if you are a novice, use seamless, after all, color spraying is a big project, and you have to buy airbrushes, air pumps, and paints, which belong to the professional range. Wish.

1. If it is rough, use several kinds of sandpaper to polish, and the label is used from low to high. The abrasive paste is used last, and if it is not polished smoothly and there are obvious marks, the abrasive paste will not be of much use.

2. Be sure to dry and then polish, if it is "seamless", it is necessary to melt off some plastic, but only the joint. By the way, the seamless or yellow cover is easier to control, and the green cover is used for flow seams, which has strong fluidity.

3. Are you sure it's "luminous" and not "fluorescent"?

4. If you spray too much, it will be white, and it will become a little farther away. But I don't know of ...... that spray the skeleton with varnish

PS: Has the skeleton been colored? Don't make it seamless...... if you have colored it

3 No, not only the model can't be deformed, but even the angel 2 in the animation can't be deformed.

It can transform into a vortex Angel Gundam, which has not appeared in the anime, and Bandai has not officially released related toys.