Do potted fruit tree seedlings have new leaves to be cut off in winter?

In winter, prune off densely grown twigs and dense leaves to achieve better light transmittance, reduce nutrient consumption in winter, and increase cold resistance;

After the potted fruit tree loses its leaves, various physiological activities in the tree, such as respiration, transpiration, root synthesis, absorption, flower bud differentiation and nutrient transformation in the tree, these activities are very weak, and the management of potted trees in winter is an important guarantee for flowering and fruiting in the following year.

1.Management of dormancy period of potted trees.

Under the condition of 0, the potted plant of the compound deciduous fruit tree needs 200 1500 hours of accumulated temperature, and only when its cooling demand is satisfied, can it grow and bear fruit normally, but the cooling demand of different tree species is different. Peach trees need 450 1200 hours of cooling, apricots 500 900 hours, plum trees 800 1000 hours, sweet cherries 1100 1440 hours, pear trees 1200 1500 hours, etc. When the accumulated temperature hours are insufficient, it often shows late germination, less flowering and late flowering, and no elongation between branch nodes; The flower buds become brown, shriveled and stiff buds, and are easy to fall off, affecting fruit development; The fruit is small and of poor quality, which reduces the ornamentality of the potted tree.

2.Pruning of potted trees in winter.

In order to maintain a well-formed, compact tree shape and effectively control growth and fruiting, winter pruning is carried out.

It is estimated that friends do not have fruit tree seedlings to grow, and if they need to be tested, they can be tested.

Fruit trees can be pruned in winter.

Pruning is done during the period from after the fruit tree has fallen its leaves to before germination the following year, which is called winter pruning. For most species, winter pruning is usually carried out between January and February. The purpose of winter pruning is mainly to thin and shorten some unwanted branches, such as diseased branches, dead branches, dense branches and unusable long branches, etc., to develop a certain shape of the crown, so that the growth of backbone branches at all levels of the crown is balanced, cultivate tissues, and promote the formation of fruiting branches, so as to adjust the relationship between growth and fruiting.

After pruning, nutritional supplementation needs to be strengthened, and Bika water-soluble fertilizer can be selected.

Pruning in winter is carried out after the fruit trees have fallen their leaves and before bud break in spring.

The main purpose of pruning this season is to organize the tree shape, stabilize the tree, cultivate the acorn slow-fruiting branch group, and adjust the number of flower buds. The main technical measures of beam formwork are: thinning, stubbing, retraction, throwing, pulling branches, other branches, etc.

Different tree species and planting densities use different tree shapes, but it is also necessary to pay attention to the pruning of the tree and the shape of the branches.

Do apple trees still need to be pruned after transplanting after losing their leaves in autumn?

Hello Dear Kiss Perennial apple trees need to remove some branches for autumn transplanting. Due to the heavy root injury during transplanting, the root-to-shoot ratio is out of balance, and the water and nutrients are insufficient, the autumn transplanting should be combined with plastic surgery to cut off 1 2 branches, maintain a suitable root-to-shoot ratio, and take the shade to help survive, rather than remove the leaves. Watering in time after transplanting, the first watering should be thorough, and then watering every 7-10 days or so.

In winter, the left and right halls are watered once a month.

Pruning of fruit trees during the growing season can be bai

It is divided into three periods: spring pruning, summer pruning and autumn pruning.

Spring pruning is generally carried out in March, May, June and July, and autumn pruning from August to October.

In addition, the number of pruning depends on the species, variety, age, tree potential, cultivation management technology and site conditions. Gardens with long tree age, vigorous trees, high cultivation management skills and good site conditions should be pruned more often. Otherwise, it should be fewer.

Stone fruit trees, such as peach trees, are pruned 4-6 times; Kernel-fruit trees such as apples, 3 5 times; For berry trees such as grapes and pomegranates, 1226-8 times is appropriate.

Method: Cut the tips and shape the fruit tree. Cut the upper part of the shoot and make an incision 30 degrees outwards so that the branch grows outwards and eventually grows into the shape of a red wine glass. If the cut is inward, the shoots will grow inward, do not cut it like this.

Thinning and pruning, removing excess branches, to ensure the light of the main pole. Cut close to the branch point and do not leave the knots.

Center trim. Prune the central branches, which are relatively large pruning, and are not commonly used.

Summary. Hello, at this time, the nutrients stored in the fruit tree have moved from the branches and leaves to the branches and roots, and they are stored. At this time, pruning has less loss of nutrients, and because there are no leaves, it is easy to analyze the structure and pruning response of the tree.

Therefore, winter pruning is the main pruning period for most fruit trees; However, there are exceptions, such as walnut tree dormant pruning can cause wound flow, and must be pruned before autumn leaves fall or after bud break in spring to before flowering; There is also a period of wound before bud break, and pruning should be avoided during this period.

Why fruit trees are pruned after they have lost their leaves.

Hello, at this time, the nutrients stored in the fruit tree have moved from the branches and leaves to the branches and roots, and they are stored. At this time, pruning has less loss of nutrients, and because there are no leaves, it is easy to analyze the structure and pruning response of the tree. Therefore, winter pruning is the main pruning period for most fruit trees; However, there are exceptions, such as walnut tree dormant pruning can cause wound flow, and must be pruned before autumn leaves fall or after bud break in spring to before flowering; There is also a period of wound before bud break, and pruning should be avoided during this period.

The main shaping and pruning tasks of fruit trees to be completed in winter pruning are to cultivate backbone branches, balance tree potential, adjust the subordinate relationship, cultivate fruiting branch groups, control auxiliary branches, promote the growth of some branches or form flower buds, control the amount of branches, adjust the ratio of growing branches to fruiting branches and the amount of flower buds, and control the size and density of the canopy. Improve the light conditions in the inner chamber of the canopy, and renew the pruning of senescent trees.

Winter pruning is best done after the fruit is harvested, and the pruning can be done before the leaves are dropped. Using sterilized scissors, prune off some of the yellowed and old branches, as well as the branches on the top of the plant.

In principle, fruit trees can be pruned throughout the winter when they are dormant, but December is the best, there are differences between the tree species, generally early bud early pruning, late budding can be retreated, but must be completed before budding. The most important time to prune fruit trees is to finish pruning before budding (except walnuts), if there are many trees, start cutting early, and prune later, but at the earliest after the leaves have fallen. 1. There are two kinds of fruit tree pruning: winter pruning and summer pruning.

2. Pruning is mainly to prune long branches, drooping branches, dorsal branches, over-dense branches, diseased branches and weak branches, pruning can control the amount of fruit, so that the quality of fruit trees can be improved. 3. Pruning is to shape the fruit tree, the pear tree is the three main branches of the scattered layered shape, the peach is the three main branches of the open shape, and the pomegranate is the natural round head shape. 4. Summer pruning is from June to August, as long as you feel dense, you can cut off some of the twigs from the branches, which can transmit light to the shape, but don't cut the fruiting branches, otherwise you won't be able to eat the fruit.

5. Winter pruning is mainly short pruning, that is, cutting off a part of the branches from the top, 1/3 or 1/2, the purpose is to promote the growth of fruit trees, reduce the fruit, and you can also cut off part of the fruiting branches, because the results of fruit trees have a causal relationship, and the fruit will be smaller if you bear more.

Take cherries, for example. Potted cherries germinate more slowly, and some develop a little later due to nutrient and light conditions. Generally, the north of the Yellow River does not bud until early April, and the southern region can bud in early March.

To judge whether it is alive, it mainly depends on whether the branch is alive (you can use a knife to scrape a small hole to see if the inner surface of the branch is white, shiny and fresh), and you can also see whether the bud head is alive. Of course, the main thing is that there is no problem with the root system, and if the root system rots or dies, the branches are useless (some of the roots are rotten, but the branches are still green). In addition, cherry trees and fruits are susceptible to diseases, such as anthracnose, gray mold, soft rot, black spot, etc., planting fruit trees in spring, in this season the temperature and ground temperature open quickly, and the fruit trees begin to germinate 15 days after planting.

If they do not germinate during this period, they are called "budding" in fruit tree cultivation, and these plants tend to germinate only in July and August when the rainy season arrives.

1. Causes of "stuffy buds":

The injured roots are too heavy, the planting is too deep, the watering is too much, the soil is too diligent, the soil moisture is not good, and the buds left in the shaping zone are weak or there are no hidden buds, or even no buds, which can cause "stuffy buds".

Second, the solution to the "stuffy buds" after planting.

1) When fruit tree seedlings are out of the nursery, they need to be excavated from 20 cm outside the trunk circumference to retain the lateral roots that are 20 cm long, and at least 5 or more, and have a large number of fibrous roots.

2) When planting, the depth of the seedling is 3 5 cm deeper than the original seedling soil, and if the grafting interface is 3 5 cm above the ground, it is appropriate to plant the seedling with the grafting interface and the ground.

3) After planting, water once permeable, then build soil and pile up, pile up a mound of 15 cm high and 30 40 cm in diameter around the trunk, until the rainy season and then pick up the mound. After planting, it should not be watered frequently, so as to avoid low temperature, less air, and too much water around the root system, which is not conducive to the growth of the root system of fruit trees.

4) If the soil quality of the garden is sandy and the water retention is poor, it is best to cover the fruit trees with mulch, and the size of the mulch film is the same as that of the tree tray (1 square meter).

5) When drying, be sure to leave 5 or 6 full buds in the shaping belt 20 cm under the cut. If the secondary shoots have been extracted in the shaping zone, especially when there are no hidden buds at the base of the secondary shoots, 2 3 buds must be left for the secondary shoots to be cut.

The reason why potted fruit trees germinate in autumn is related to the high temperature.

Autumn temperatures are especially suitable for plant germination.

The key points of autumn pruning of fruit trees are: thinning the erect branches, overdense branches, weak branches, overlapping branches, cross branches, diseased and insect branches, etc., to improve the light in the canopy and promote the differentiation of flower buds.

However, stubbing is generally not done; The amount of pruning should not exceed 1 3 of the total amount of branches.