What is the difference between the function of D7000 Sleeve VR on and off? Do I need to open it if I

When the camera is handheld to take a picture, there will be a slight shaking or shaking that occurs inadvertently, and if this shaking happens at the moment of pressing the shutter, the image will be blurry. Especially for novice photographers, this jitter is a bit more severe. When shooting, if the camera shutter speed is high-** time is short, the effect of this jitter is small.

Moreover, the effect of this jitter increases with the increase of the focal length of the lens, and it is generally believed that the reciprocal of the focal length of the lens can be used as a standard for a safe shutter. That said, as long as the shutter speed is high enough, the effect of hand shake on the shot is negligible - there is no need to turn on stabilization.

As can be seen from the above, when the shutter speed is high (e.g., more than 1,300 seconds), even with a 300mm super-telephoto lens, the effect of shake when shooting handheld is minimal. If you are using a lens with a short focal length such as an 18-55 sleeve, a shutter speed of 1 to 60 seconds is a safe speed, even if you use a telephoto end.

Also, although anti-shake is able to shoot a clearer film when shaking, but anti-shake is a compensation measure after all, and it still has a certain impact on the resolution of the lens, especially when the shutter speed is high, the image of the image stabilization is turned on, and it is very obvious that it is not as good as the image without the stabilization.

In order to reduce the effect of stabilization on resolution, I believe that as long as the shutter speed is above the safe speed, you should not leave stabilization on. If the shutter speed is lower than the safe speed, try not to shoot hand-held (on a tripod or with the camera on a comparison table and pressed it tightly with your hands).

Unless the shutter speed is lower than the safe speed and the situation is only handheld, do not turn on stabilization.

You can mention two shutter stops, if it is 18 105, especially at the 105 end, it is better to keep it open.

If you hold it in your hand, you need to open it. Not on a tripod. VR is a lens stabilization feature.

Upstairs is pure nonsense... VR is the lens stabilization switch... I'm dizzy!

This is a shot, don't think there's a slash that's two. 18-105 is the focal length, which is the maximum aperture. This is a D7000 pullover, which is sufficient, but not very good.

The use of the upper focal length covers a wide range, the zoom ratio is large, travel, daily life use is enough, if you want a portrait or sketch in the later stage, add 50 or 35 set. If you want to retouch the picture in post, ** the requirements are high, and this lens may be not good.

Where are the two lenses? The AF-S DX 18-105 F ED VR is a lens. This set is more suitable for entry-level use, and should be able to meet most of the daily use.

After using it for a period of time, you can go up to a large aperture of 35 or 50 to fix the focus according to your favorite focal length, so that 1W should be just right. If you travel more, it should be better to choose 16-85, but this lens is not cost-effective.

28300 is a full-frame bai

lens, 18300 is a duapsc format lens, because this kind of zhi large zoom lens is very valuable, and it is a waste to buy the 18300 in daoapsc format.

In the future, it will not be easy to sell again, so there are not many people who buy the crack, Tenglong has a 16-300 lens with a good evaluation, you can consider another state, which can consider buying 70-300 lenses, each is generally only less than 1000, and the image quality is 300mm and 18300

This is similar and has a very low cost of learning to get started.

As long as it is not a full-frame machine, the focal length is to be converted, regardless of the lens.

To put it bluntly, the conversion is actually the field of view, not the focal length.

Yes, the angle of view is approximately equivalent to a physical focal length of 28-150mm

The standard is 50mm, you buy a 35mm. Attaching it is a portrait standard head. Thank you!

It's a bit too violent, and I can get it back a little later

PS deal with it. Slightly lower the amount of ** and increase the saturation a little. You shot in standard or natural mode mode, not like the landscape mode.

Use the landscape default mode to gain +1 beats for both saturation and sharpness. Or standard mode sharpness to 6-7 like shooting. The lens is a little worse, but the D7000's original color is a little light.

I won't PS adjust the shooting on the landscape mode +1 gear, ** straight out.

It has something to do with the lens.,The 18-105 lens is really a little worse.,The things that come out are relatively gray.,It is recommended that you change the lens.,And then your ** is a little excessive.。 But reduce a little bit of ** amount Maybe the color will look better, I hope it can help you, personal experience

**A little too much, it would be better to lower it a little** compensation.

18-55 is Nikon's low-end camera, such as D3100 D5100 set of lenses, used in D7000 This kind of high-end machine is really a bit discordant, the effect of this lens image stabilization is not bad, the sharpness after closing the small aperture in strong daylight is also very amazing (compared to more than 300 yuan ** is amazing, can achieve the effect of a 1,000 yuan zoom lens), the disadvantage is that the workmanship is average, plastic interface, the lens is all optical plastic, extremely cheap

Relatively speaking, 18-105 is more suitable, excellent image stabilization, sharpness worthy of the price, compared to large zoom lenses such as 18-200, a larger aperture is conducive to shooting portrait close-ups to soften the background, compared to the price of more than 1,000 yuan, it is still quite a cost-effective choice, suitable for novice practice

My suggestion is that the landlord first start with the 18-105 Suspend the purchase of 70-300VR, first of all, you have to have an 18mm wide angle (DX equivalent to 27mm) so that you can shoot some scenery and family gatherings more calmly, and 18-105 has a certain flexible zoom ability, compared to the prime lens, it is more suitable for beginner enthusiasts who have just converted from digital cards, and it is also very convenient to travel as a hang-up head. 70-300VR is a dedicated long-range lens, with a narrow field of view, relatively fixed use, and no tripod assist in the focal length above 135, it is difficult to make a really good **.

After you have used it for a period of time and have experience and a sense of lens, it will be more targeted to add lenses, and now you don't have to blindly match the focal length, and the future will be long

If you still have questions, please feel free to ask.

If yes, you're not going to take a portrait. Then this can be fine.

Your collocation,It's safe to say,Can't produce any high-quality**,(Of course, it's only the quality of the ** itself, not the content, if it's a master, the same mobile phone shoots a classic). There is no wide aperture, and the image quality is mediocre.

So for portraits, these two lenses are not good. Of course, if you don't ask for much, you can just shoot and play. But it can't be compared, if it is compared, these two shots will be thrown away.

If you want to buy a telephoto, this is no problem, if you want to shoot farther, then you must use a telephoto, congratulations, you didn't choose 70 200, if you don't have to use that lens, it's expensive and inconvenient, it's okay not to buy it.

But I do think you might as well buy two shots.

1. 70 300vr

2。 35mm

Why did you add a 35 when you have this, and you will know what the difference is... This prime is really good.

Don't buy 50 or 50 that perspective is not full of uncomfortable death.

You're pretty good at it, but why don't you match the 55-300VR lens? This way your focal length is basically seamless.

However, the image quality of the 70-300 lens is really good.

18-55 is the worst head;

Let's play with 18-105 first, and then talk about the rest with a paragraph, and I'm afraid that the photographic equipment will be bought first.

It is recommended to buy 35 heads, 35 is very good no matter which version it is, 50 The focal length is a bit long on the non-full-frame body, and it is okay to shoot indoor portraits.

The most cost-effective is undoubtedly 50, compared to 50, you spend 800 yuan less, but there is no compromise too much in picture quality. But that's not to say that the 50mm F of more than 1400 is not worth it, in the range of f, the sharpness is better than the 50mm f, especially in edge imaging, which is basically worth the money you spend.