What should I do with the branches that are harvested and sent again?

First, the shaping period (vegetative growth) of the branches of young trees in addition to the top buds with flowers, more often to the long branches, this kind of branches do not affect the shaping, ventilation and light transmission, non-crossing, overlapping conditions, generally do not thin, after many times of light plucking to the fallen leaves, to the next year's flowering period shrink to the flowering part, leave this branch (can be used for a few years) is to deliberately consume the tree nutrition, ease the tree (control the prosperity), increase the fruiting area, so that the tree enters the first fruit period in advance, for the secondary tips with the top flower branches, can also be decided to stay according to the above methods.

2. Branches under the cut and saw in the full fruit period: in addition to the retraction extension head under the shear, most of the fruit branches under the sparse claw are withered in June, which generally does not matter; The fruit table and side tips that are born due to excessive nutrition or other reasons should be removed from the hanging fruit, and the others should be picked lightly or long according to the growth situation. Under the saw edge, there are many long branches, which should be sparse according to the growth of the tree, and the left should be lightly plucked to the fallen leaves, and used temporarily.

After the pepper is burned, the words that are sent again are generally topped, stubbed, and the overly dense branches and buds are erased. There is room for you to spare the branches.

What to do with the branch teeth of the pepper received and sent again, in fact, it doesn't matter if he sends the teeth, if he is too luxuriant, don't talk about the pepper, then you can cut it off a little.

This can also be made directly into condiments.

It's just that its price point is very low.

After the pepper is harvested, you can wait until the leaves fall to cut off, and there is no need to manage it now.

1. Sparse cutting. There are many ways to prune pepper trees, and in the early stage of fruiting, thinning is mainly used. At this time, although the pepper tree has borne fruit, it is still growing, so it is necessary to cut off its branches from the base in time, and some over-dense, cross-cutting and pure overlapping branches and buds should also be properly cut off, so that the plants can better receive light and promote better results.

2. Stub. Stubbing is a more commonly used pruning method, mainly to repair the main branches that are too vigorous and senescent in the growth process of Zanthoxylum bungeanum trees to reduce nutrient consumption and promote the growth of new branches. Basically, it is necessary to make a short cut at 2 3 of the main branches, and keep 2 3 main branches to continue to grow.

3. Shaping and pruning.

When the seedlings of the pepper tree are planted, they should be pruned in the current year or the second year, and the top end should be cut off from the base trunk 25 to 30 cm, so that more side branches can germinate, so that the tree shape is more full and vigorous. At this time, the sapling is more fragile, and the pruning should be mainly light pruning, without stubbing, and then the branches germinating from the base are retained 5 7, and the rest are all cut off.

4. Stay strong and go to weak.

After 25 years of growth, the pepper tree will enter the senescence period, at this time, pruning is mainly to retain the strong and remove the weak, and concentrate nutrients to prolong the life of the plant. It is necessary to cut off some emaciated branches, drooping branches and senescent branches from the base during the growth process, leaving strong branches to continue to grow, so as to restore the strength of the tree and regrow.

Prune the branches of the pepper tree to increase the growth space of the pepper tree and ventilate the space to express your own opinions, if there is something wrong, I hope everyone will point to each other.

As long as the roots are not broken, new branches can be sprouted. Cutting and training management.

Zanthoxylum bungeanum trees are drought tolerant and barren, especially suitable for planting in terraced fields, marginal land, wasteland, and around orchards. Scientific planting of pepper trees is also an effective way to improve the ecological environment and increase farmers' income.

Expand the hole and fertilize. After the soil thaws in early spring, the soil around the roots of the pepper tree is planed 30-50 cm deep, and about 30 kg of organic fertilizer is applied to each plant; At the germination stage in mid-April and after fruit picking in late July, each plant was applied with a standard kilogram of chemical fertilizer. After fertilization, water it thoroughly in time.

Mulching warming: Mulching has a good effect of moisturizing and warming, and can generally increase the ground temperature by about 3, which is conducive to the development and growth of roots. The mulching should be carried out in time after the expansion of the hole and fertilization, and the soil should be fine and dry along the tree row, slightly higher near the trunk, and the area of the cover film should be slightly larger than the outer edge of the canopy.

The junction of the two plastic films is compacted with soil, and the plastic film is flattened as far as possible and the ground is tightly sealed. At the end of April, cover the film with a thickness of 5 cm of fine soil, which can prevent the growth of weeds and prolong the service life of the film.

Foliar sprays. With a mixture of 3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and urea, foliar fertilizer is sprayed 6 times a year, the first time during the flowering period, the second time 10 days after flowering, and the third spray at an interval of 10 days, once in early and mid-July and once after fruit harvest.

Pruning and rejuvenation: Combined with harvesting peppercorns in summer, pruning should be carried out in time. Cut off some large branches and diseased branches of weakened trees, remove excess branches in autumn, and finally retain 5-7 main branches per plant, and appropriately remove dense branches in the crown, the amount of thinning is generally not more than 25%, and shrink some weak branches to strong buds; The medium and short branches of the mediocre tree are generally not shortened, mainly sparse, and attention should be paid to protecting the terminal buds, appropriately shortening the long fruit branches, and retaining the large buds.