Do you know how the vines are pruned?

1. Fence cultivation and pruning technology:The vines are cultivated on a hedge, with a height of about 150 cm, high in the north and low in the south, and should be pruned in a regular fan shape. Generally, each vine has 2 to 4 main vines, and 2 to 3 fruiting mother branches on each main vine, and the fruiting mother branches should be pruned according to the medium and long tips, and the reserve branches should be kept short except for the two buds.

2. Small trellis cultivation and pruning technology:Small trellis to cultivate grapevines, the shelf surface from south to north or other directions, should be stretched in the middle direction, to ensure that the distance between the shelf surface and the shed film should be greater than 50 cm, you can adopt the dragon stem pruning technique. Each vine retains 2 to 3 main vines, about 40 cm apart between the main vines, and one fruiting mother branch is kept every 30 cm on each main vine, and 12 fruiting mother branches can be kept in about one square meter area, and the excess is pruned.

3. Pruning techniques during the growing season:In the greenhouse cultivation of grapevines, there is a phenomenon such as the growth of new shoots, the growth is not neat, you can prune in the growing season of the grapevines, you need to pay attention to the density of the retained branches when pruning, greenhouse cultivation and pruning, the retention of the total branches is about 25% less than the open air cultivation, and it is also necessary to twist the long branches to control the vigorous growth, promote the balance with the new shoots.

When setting the shoots, it is necessary to retain more robust fruiting new shoots, and some preparatory branches can be appropriately reserved, and the density of the new shoots is about 13 per square meter, and the guidance of the new shoots should be done. For the new shoots that do not retain the secondary fruit, about 6 leaves should be left on the spike for topping, and the top two leaves should be retained for the secondary shoots, and multiple toppings should be taken to control the length, and other excess branches should not be retained.

4. Pruning techniques after multiple fruiting of vines:

1. Let the winter buds germinate and bear fruit pruning technology: about 4 days before the vine flowering, leave about 8 leaves on the fruit ears for topping, in addition to leaving a secondary shoot at the top, you can cut off the excess shoots, about half a month later, cut off all the secondary shoots again, you can let the winter buds germinate and bear fruit.

2. Pruning technology with summer bud side shoots: half a month before the vine flowering, pick out a part of the robust new shoots, only retain the front end of 2 to 3 summer buds that have not yet sprouted for topping, if the summer buds and side shoots appear to sprout, they should be cut off, when it is found that there is no growth inflorescence after the germination of the summer buds retained, you can keep one or two more leaves to pluck the top, and most of the secondary shoots that are sent out again will have inflorescences that can bear fruit.

3. Low temperature to promote dormancy method: for the grape vines pruned in autumn, it is necessary to water the frozen water once, and to water thoroughly, and to buckle the shed management before the frost, so that the insulation layer is not needed to be uncovered during the day, and the ventilation and cooling can be carried out at night to control the humidity in the shed and promote its smooth passage of natural dormancy.

In the spring, all the young shoots that are not growing well and germinate late should be cut off, and the flower cores should be cut off two weeks before flowering. A week before flowering, cut off the top section of the branch and the branch at the secondary tip.

Grapevine pruning first look at the side branches, generally leave two flower buds on the side branches, two flower buds next year is two bunches of grapes, and then one needs to pay attention to when cutting to the dry branches, you need to find the source of the dry branches, cut off all the dead branches, because such branches generally hide insects.

Use sterilized scissors to prune off the yellowed branches and some old branches. After a period of time, after the wound is dried, nitrogen fertilizer and potassium fertilizer should be supplemented in time to promote the growth of plant rhizomes.

The vines are pruned every winter and the fruiting and backbone branches are renewed in good time. The period should be after the return of nutrients from the tree after the leaves have fallen and before the sap begins to flow in the following year. In the north, it is necessary to bury the soil one week before the ground, and the non-buried soil cold-proof area can be postponed until mid-February.

In order to prevent the fruiting part from moving away from the main branch or side branches, the method of leaving 1 3 sections of pruning on mature one-year-old branches during winter pruning is called short-tip pruning, which is suitable for pruning of dragon trunk shape pruning. In Okayama and other places in Japan, varieties such as white rose, pioneer, and combiel are pruned with only one bud or basal bud, and this kind of extremely heavy pruning is also called ultra-short tip pruning.

In winter pruning, pruning mature one-year-old branches with more than 4 buds is called mid-to-long tip pruning, which is suitable for hedge-shaped pruning and X-shaped pruning. Among them, the pruning with 4 6 buds is called "middle tip pruning", and the pruning with 6 9 buds is called "long tip pruning".

After pruning, it can promote the content of water and fertilizer to act on those branches, while increasing the area of sunlight transmission, which can also promote better growth of fruits, improve quality and yield. After construction, the branches can also be thickened, which can always exude higher vitality and ensure the improvement of quality. In summer, it is the time of fruit production, so it is necessary to pluck the tops in time.

In the fall, those dense trees must be removed to increase permeability and provide favorable conditions for sunlight to spread. Winter is the most important time to remove old, weak, and diseased branches to promote increased yield. The ears and grains become smaller, the quality is poor, the ripening period is delayed, the branch growth is weak, and the ripening is poor.

The amount of buds left is too small, the number of fruiting branches is not enough, and the shelf surface is empty, which also affects the yield.

The best time to prune is naturally autumn and winter, and the most reasonable time to prune is usually from November to December, when the nutrients will start to store and the resistance to the outside world will be stronger. However, it needs to be based on a certain variety, otherwise it will affect the wintering. And those varieties that are highly resistant should be pruned in January next year.

When repairing, be sure to see the growth of the tree in advance. If the growth is sluggish, try not to cut it. Of course, we should also pay attention to removing the messy branches and repairing the 1-year-old trees.

It is necessary to ensure the correct cutting of the branches, otherwise the effect will be greatly affected in the second year.

According to the growth characteristics of each variety, it is necessary to not only ventilate and transmit light, but also to plant moderately densely, and always insist on leaving more sturdy branches and buds, and leaving less or no twigs and buds. Pruning should be carried out in accordance with the pruning principle of combining growth with fruiting and not separating the preparation of fruit. Cut off 3-5 buds of a growing sturdy vise and tie them along the wire to the left and right; For the branches with weak growth and no fruit energy, the main vine can be truncated to renew the culture fruit.

When thinning, the cutting edge should be level with the mother branch, and should be smooth, without stubble, skin trauma, and short pile, so as to facilitate rapid wound healing and minimize the impact on the growth of branches under the cutting edge. As a result, only 1 secondary tip of the branch top was retained, and the rest was erased in time, leaving 2 3 leaves to repeat the coring. Inflorescence.

The lower apex is erased, while the upper apex of the inflorescence leaves a leaf to repeat the pitting, and the axillary buds on the apex are removed. The pitting and secondary treatment methods of the developing branches were basically the same as those of the fruiting branches.

Need, prune in the fall. The task of autumn is to pluck the second pair, remove the closed branches, weak branches, and branches with low lignification, adjust the amount of branches, see light on the branches, improve the light conditions, and make the shelf surface permeable.

Grapes need to be pruned, usually after the winter solstice, when the grapes enter the dormant period.

The vines are best pruned around June in the summer and December in the winter, when the vines are budding and the weaker buds are cut off, leaving only the robust ones. Generally, it is enough to leave about ten branches on the main vine, or you can pluck it before flowering to help it produce more grapes.

When the vines are pruned.

The vines are best pruned around June in the summer and December in the winter, depending on the climate and variety. In summer, it should start with the budding, and in winter, it should be combined with varieties. If it is a variety with poor cold tolerance, the pruning time should be appropriately advanced, and the soil should be buried after pruning to avoid frostbite.

The vine prunes its branches and leaves.

1. Fixed-branching

On the vine, some branches are fruit-bearing and some are generally grown, so it is important to set the branches properly. Some varieties are more vigorous, so you can leave more fruiting branches for them.

2. Wipe the buds

For the newly grown buds of the grapes, the buds should be properly wiped. For example, the buds that grow on some thinner branches, or the buds that are not very good in their own growth and development, should be erased in time, which can effectively reduce the consumption of nutrients.

3. Topping

For some vines that are overgrown, it is generally enough to keep six or seven leaves for topping. After removing the top, the nutrients can be refluxed, and the fruit setting rate can be increased.

Vine pruning tips.

The pruning of grapevines is generally done by thinning and stubbing, budding and shooting, topping, sub-tipping, pinching inflorescence tips, and tendrils.

After the grapes sprout, the buds that are too weak to grow are broken off, leaving only the robust 3-5 buds, and the next few new shoots are repeatedly topped after growing to 8-10 leaves, so as to control the growth, concentrate nutrition, and focus on cultivating the top new shoot. If properly managed, it can grow to more than 2 meters tall in a year.

The vines are pruned and flowered.

Two weeks before the vine blooms, the inflorescences growing together on the plant need to be thinned to remove the ones that are not growing well. This prevents the weaker inflorescences from competing with other inflorescences for nutrients, and the flowers open more neatly.

The vines are pruned and bear a lot of fruit.

When the buds of the vine grow to 2 3 cm, the weak buds are erased, and the hidden buds are useless. Leaving enough fruiting branches can increase the fruit setting rate and promote the expansion of young fruits.

Precautions for vine pruning.

1. PruneWhen pruning the vine, cut off all the useless branches such as dead branches, dead branches, diseased branches and long branches, and try to keep only the new shoots that are fully ripe and full of buds.

2. Disinfection: After pruning, use white latex to apply the pruning mouth, and tie it up after pruning to prevent wound infection and disease.

3. Remove old vines: When thinning the vines, do not cut the edge close to the base, for many years of old vines, if they no longer have the ability to bear fruit, they should be pruned thoroughly.

1. Pruning the vines should be carried out after the leaves have fallen and before the beginning of spring, specifically between mid-December and early February of each year.

2. Dead branches, diseased and insect branches, old and weak branches, thinner branches and overlapping branches should be pruned, and the skin row should save nutrients to the greatest extent to prepare for flowering and fruiting in the next year.

3. In addition, the length should also be repaired, leaving more than 8 buds in the long shoot, 4-7 buds in the middle tip, and 1-3 buds in the short tip.

1. How to prune the vines in winter:

The main thing to pay attention to when pruning the vines in winter is the removal of the fruiting mother branches. The fruiting mother branch refers to the branch that has matured for one year, and the branch that can sprout and bear fruit in the spring of the second year. The retention of fruiting mother branches needs to be considered in many aspects, and the varieties, growth habits, planting environment, and planting techniques of fruit trees are all important aspects that affect fruit tree pruning.

The length of pruning is generally divided into long tip pruning, medium tip pruning, and short tip pruning. Long tip pruning generally prunes 8 to 11 buds, which is common in the pruning process of grape varieties such as red grapes, beauty fingers, and giant peaks.

Medium tip pruning generally retains 5 to 7 buds, and most of the vines that are pruned are medium grown. Short tip pruning generally retains 2 to 4 buds, and is mostly used for grape varieties with full flower buds at the base of the branches and strong fruiting ability, such as Tota 8 and Rose.

In addition to the pruning of the fruiting mother branches, it is also necessary to pay attention to the renewal pruning of the fruiting branches. Generally, it is divided into several situations: double-branch renewal pruning, single-branch renewal pruning, and perennial branch renewal pruning. These pruning methods are carried out for different vines.

Double-branch renewal pruning is generally used for the pruning of medium and long tips, generally leaving two branches, one for the fruiting mother branch, one for the upper branch, and one for the preparatory branch in the lower section. In the second year, the mother branch bears fruit and prepares the branch to sprout new branches. The same pruning is done in winter, pruning off the mother branches, leaving one of the two new branches on the preparatory branch as the fruiting mother branch and one as the preparatory branch.

This is how it will be pruned in the future.

Single-branch renewal pruning is simpler, you don't need to keep the preparatory branch, you only need to keep the fruiting mother branch, and then prune the fruiting mother branch in the second year, and constantly let it renew. Perennial branch renewal pruning requires attention to taking turns to renew the branches.

2. How to prune the vines in summer:

The pruning of the summer vines is also a major task in the growth management process of the vines, unlike the winter pruning, which can be pruned after the vines can be allowed to survive the winter, the summer vine pruning time is relatively long, generally from the spring vine bud to the autumn can be pruned, so it can also be seen that the summer vine pruning is very important.

The pruning of summer vines is generally divided into bud wiping, budding and cutting, pruning, topping of new shoots, treatment of secondary shoots, inflorescence trimming, tendril removal, and shelf shaping. Pruning is also done in spring and autumn, but these two seasons are generally small auxiliary prunings and are not as important as winter and summer pruning.