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1. Spray rooting agent on the mother tree.
Two or three days before harvesting cuttings, the rooting agent was evenly sprayed on the mother, and the absorption of young shoots and tender bark was carried out in the tree, which could make the tannin of the inhibiting material in the branches decrease significantly, the germination ability was enhanced, and the rooting of cuttings was fast.
2. Choose the best time to take branches.
It is better to prune the branches in the morning. In the morning, the water content of the branches of the flowers and trees is sufficient, the wound heals quickly after cuttings, it is easy to take root, and the survival rate is high.
3. Shoot branches after selecting flowers.
The post-flowering branches have the highest nutrient content, and are relatively thick and full, with a high survival rate of cuttings, and fast root and leaf growth.
4. Strong skills with heel cuttings.
The cuttings are cut two or three centimeters below the junction of the new and old branches. It has many nutrients, compact tissue, easy rooting, high survival rate after cuttings, and strong seedling growth. It is suitable for cuttings of osmanthus, camellia, figs, etc.
5. Peel and engrave cuttings before cuttings.
Ring stripping: 20 days before cutting cuttings, ring peel at the base of the branch ready for cuttings, 5 mm to 7 mm wide, which is conducive to adventitious roots of cuttings. Longitudinal wound:
One month before the harvesting of flowers and trees that are difficult to take root, the branches of the mother tree are carved so that the nutrients produced by the branches can be stored on the branches to the maximum extent, instead of flowing back to the mother tree, so as to create material conditions for rooting.
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1. First of all, we select annual branches, about 20 cm long, with one or two buds, and cut them into an oblique mouth of 45 degrees with sharp scissors, horseshoe-shaped.
2. Cuttings can be directly made of soil, and sandy soil should be selected as much as possible, which should be loose and breathable. Insert a hole with chopsticks and place the cuttings into the hole. Press the surrounding soil tightly and pour plenty of water at once.
3. Of course, there are many substrates for cuttings, vermiculite can be used, which has a certain water retention, and it is not easy to have bacteria in it and will not corrode the roots of plants.
4. In addition to branch cuttings, we also have quite a lot of plants that are cut with leaves, such as succulent plants or fairy plants are cut with leaves, such as crab claw orchid is to take the upper part of the leaves, first dry the leaves for 4-5 hours, and then carry out cuttings, cuttings with sand or vermiculite.
5. There are also substrates for cuttings, and quite a lot of them are cut with water, which is more convenient and clean, and many of our families can propagate plants in this way. Cut off the branches of the plant, and then insert it in the water, the temperature is between 15 and 25 degrees, about 10 to 15 days will take root, after rooting, you can bury it in the soil for normal maintenance.
6. There is also a high-pressure cutting method, this cutting method, can be carried out in any season, the plant has chopstick-shaped branches, cut a circle to remove the skin, and then cover the soil, wrap it with a plastic bag, it will take root in about 15 days, and then intercept it after rooting, and bury it in the soil for normal maintenance. The survival rate of this cuttings method is almost 100%.
7. Many flower friends have also innovated a lot of new cuttings, such as paper towel cuttings, which are wrapped in cuttings with wet paper towels. Since the wet wipes have good air and water permeability, which can ensure the humidity and temperature of the cuttings, then they will also take root soon, this method is very simple and easy. The survival rate is also very high.
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When cutting saplings, choose more than one year and a half lignified branches, prune them with clean scissors, choose loose and breathable, drainable and breathable fertile soil, insert the branches into the soil, the depth is about 5cm, gently compact the soil, cover the film, put it in a ventilated place for maintenance, accept scattered light, pay attention to the amount of watering, and prevent drought or waterlogging.
For some shrub species with slender and soft branches, about 1 month before preparing for cuttings, you can use the method of striping to promote the rooting of the branches. Smear the area to be rooted with rooting powder, and then press it into the soil, a large number of fibrous roots can be born in 20 days, and the previous scratching method is used in combination, the effect is more obvious, you can not remove the leaves on the branches, and the root system germinates faster.
Before preparing cuttings, with about 2 grams of rooting powder mixed with 5 kg to 10 kg of water, spray the mother tree, spray everywhere, about 2 to 3 days later, the rooting material through the mother's spores and tender bark absorption and conduction, will lead to a significant decline in the branches that can inhibit the growth of soapberry, at this time, and then pick cuttings, it will be easy to root, improve the survival rate.
Maintenance of cuttings saplings
After the cuttings are lived, they should be planted in a pot of appropriate size, and a little fermented organic fertilizer should be placed at the bottom of the pot. Cuttings and grafting are asexual reproduction methods, and new individuals can retain all the traits of their parents, which is suitable for rapid reproduction of varieties. Most species of cuttings are most likely to take root at temperatures between 20 and 25, and on the whole, cuttings can be carried out at any time as long as the ambient temperature and substrate temperature are sufficient for the broad root conditions.
Spring is the best time to carry out cuttings, its branches are rich in nutrients, cuttings germinate faster, rooting slowly, to improve the survival rate of cuttings of branches, cuttings should be used before rooting treatment, so that the cuttings first root and then germinate.
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Choose branches, semi-lignified branches, keep 2 3 leaves, 20 25 cm in length, bevel at the base 45 °; Select the soil, using 4:3:1:
2. Humus, vermiculite, sand, garden soil, etc. are mixed and configured into nutrient soil; Temperature time, cutting time in April or May or September and October, the temperature is 20 25; To carry out cuttings, first water the soil once, insert the branches to a depth of about 5cm, and cover the film.
When cutting saplings, select more than one year of semi-lignified branches, prune with clean scissors, keep only 2 3 leaves as bud points, the length is 20 25cm, the bottom is cut into a 45 ° slope, put into the Duoling fungus solution to soak and disinfect, the time is about 20 minutes, rinse with water after fishing, dip the rooting solution, and dry in a cool place.
When cutting seedlings, choose loose, breathable, drained and breathable fertile soil, and you can use 4:3:1:
2. Humus, vermiculite, sand, garden soil, etc. are mixed and configured into nutrient soil, disinfected after the configuration is completed, and the selected potassium permanganate solution is mixed with water, and the soil is sprayed with a small watering can to ensure that there is no bacteria in the soil and prevent the occurrence of black rod rot.
The best time for sapling cuttings is in April and May in spring and September and October in autumn, the temperature is 20 25 o'clock, the temperature is pleasant at this time, which is conducive to the rapid rooting and germination of branches, and the branches are rich in water and nutrients, which can improve the survival rate. After cuttings, they should be placed in a ventilated place for maintenance, receive scattered light, pay attention to the amount of watering, and prevent drought or waterlogging.
When the sapling is cutting, it is necessary to water the soil once, insert the branches into the soil with a depth of about 5cm, gently compact the soil, cover the film, moisturize and heat preservation, keep the air humidity at about 80%, and the soil moisture from about 60%, so as to prevent the root rot caused by too much moisture, or the dehydration of the branches caused by too dry soil.
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The method of propagation by cuttings is relatively simple. The cutting time is mostly selected in spring and autumn, and the cuttings can be divided into three categories: stem cuttings, root cuttings and leaf cuttings. The cutting substrate can be prepared with materials such as river sand, vermiculite, perlite, plain sandy soil, peaty soil, decaying moss, chaff ash and sawdust, and pay attention to maintaining reasonable humidity and temperature.
Most plants need to take root and develop in a temperature of 20 to 25 years, so spring and autumn are the most suitable time for cuttings. If the temperature in the environment is stable, it can meet the needs of the plant to take root and germinate. The climate of summer cuttings is too extreme, so it is recommended to use semi-lignified cuttings with fresh leaves.
Winter plants are mostly dormant, and it is recommended not to take cuttings.
Different organs on the plant have different cuttings, which are mainly divided into three categories: stem cuttings, root cuttings and leaf cuttings. Leaf cuttings are usually used only when propagating succulents. All columnar, whip-shaped, ribbon-shaped, and long-spherical species can use stem cuttings.
Root cuttings bury the thick rhizomes directly into the soil, and the survival rate is high.
The cutting substrate generally used requires loose air permeability and high drainage. It is usually prepared with materials such as river sand, vermiculite, perlite, plain sand, peat, decaying moss, chaff ash and sawdust. The substrate of cuttings should be placed in the potting soil, and should not be spread too full and too thick.
The temperature of cuttings is stable between 20 and 25, and after the cuttings are inserted into the soil, the soil needs to be buried for insulation. The humidity is controlled between 80 and 90%, and the film is covered with moisture. Cuttings are mainly shaded in semi-shade at the initial stage, and can be irradiated with direct light of moderate intensity after rooting.
The cuttings of spider plants are very easy. As soon as the stolons have grown, place the stolons with white rootlets in the soil, then cover with soil, water thoroughly, and wait for the roots to tie together with the new soil. You can cut off the spider plant of the plantlet, which can be maintained normally.
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