Can we plant grass in November?

In November, you can't insert it, and the perennial submerged herb of potamogeton crispus l is also called shrimp algae and shrimp grass. Potamogetonaceae, potamogeton. Unlike most aquatic plants, it germinates in autumn, grows in winter and spring, flowers and bears fruit in April and May, gradually decays and decays after June in summer, and forms scales to survive the summer.

With the intensification of water pollution, it is rare to see a large area of grass growing in nature, so it is of great significance to plant it in the restoration of aquatic vegetation and the eutrophication treatment project of water body. In winter, other submerged plants such as bitter grass, black algae, and Malayan eyeweed have decayed and died in winter, and the presence of grass supplements the primary productivity of the winter water ecosystem and can ensure the stability of water quality in winter. Therefore, planting grass is important for the stability of the aquatic ecosystem in winter.

At present, the propagation mode of S. spp. mainly relies on scale propagation, and the reproduction rate is slow, and the collection of scale branches is relatively difficult. Therefore, there is a need for a breeding method that can reproduce in large quantities, at low cost and easy to operate.

In November, the grass can be planted, and this situation is okay at any time as long as it can be saved.

In November, the grass can also be cutting, but if you are in this season, you should pay attention to keeping warm, but the survival rate will be relatively low.

Yes, this November will be warmer for the man in some cases, so it's perfectly fine.

In November, it's generally not possible, in the north, but in the south, it's still okay because it's not particularly cold.

Yes, it won't be too cold in November, so it's okay to plant this again.

Of course, November is a good time to plug in.

In November, the grass can be transplanted and will not affect its growth.

This grass can be cut in November, but the survival rate of cuttings is relatively low.

The local grass in November can be cutting, and this is all being used.

Yes, November is in line with its laws and in line with him. Menstrual period.

And that's okay, because these things and plants have a temperature limit or a water limit, and if you do that, it's okay.

In November, if the weather permits, cuttings are possible. Under normal circumstances, the man is okay.

In November, you can raise your hand to stick a skewer, and at this time, you can make a pool of that kind of fine yarn and water it, and then you can cut off the noisy car, and you can cut it into a cutting.

Yes, but it depends on the climate of each place, and the temperature in the local area.

Of course, there is no problem with this, and it is okay in this season, but in fact, if it is like this season, they are easy to survive and are lifelong plants in themselves.

I just helped you check the information released with you, and this is okay.

Of course, you can sign in November, this is like the season of dismantling, so you can survive.

I think it's okay this month, because it feels like it's really appropriate, so I think it's completely okay in this month.

In November, you can, because in the south, you can do it in the northeast, because the northeast is too cold.

I think it's okay to intervene in November, because you said it's their local custom.

This is okay, her words can be planted by cuttings, and this time is also possible.

In October, the grass can be slashed, so his way is related to each season, so it will do a certain amount of work in a season, so it is also in season like him.

In November, you can plug in the bath, but you must pay attention to the fact that some of them can't.

Ah, under normal circumstances, then I think he should be able to, but this one is relatively cooler.

Of course, you can do it, you just have to do it before November 20th, no problem.

Can weeding in November be wiped dry and dismantled? Mine is for weeding in November and can be planted.

As long as you're not a few degrees below zero, that's fine. It is also a plant that is easy to live for a person.

This is the dragon spitting pearl.

Dragon spit beads can be found during the growing season.

section cuttings, but not suitable for direct cuttings with flower branches, cuttings should be selected without the right to flower vegetative branches for advisable....

It is better to propagate from dragon spit cuttings in spring and autumn. It is better to remove part of the leaves from the new branches that occur from adventitious buds at the roots of the plant and make cuttings....

You can choose a robust annual branch cut into 2 3 sections, keep the top leaves and cut off 1 2, insert them into plain sandy soil, maintain them in the shade, maintain humidity, take root in 20 days, and plant them in pots after 35 days....

In addition, leaf bud cuttings and root cuttings are also available....

Leaf bud cuttings: take the side buds on the branches as cuttings, cut with 1 small section of branches, and then cuttings in the substrate, the buds are exposed outside the substrate, shade and maintain for 20 25 days to take root, and the leaf buds are potted after germination.

Root cuttings: can be combined with repotting, the rhizome on the soil is cut into 8 10 cm segments as cuttings. The substrate should be peat, vermiculite, perlite, humus or sand with good permeability, but it is better to be acidic.

Propagation by cuttings.

Cuttings are divided into flat cuttings, high cuttings and ridge cuttings, and flat cuttings are mainly used in arid areas to facilitate irrigation; High furrow and ridge cuttings are mainly used in areas with moist soil, so as to drain water in time and prevent excessive moisture on the furrow surface.

Regardless of flat cuttings or high cuttings, the seedbed should be made before cuttings. The size of the seedbed should be determined according to the shape of the plot, generally 1 meter wide and 8-10 meters long, with a cutting spacing of 12-15 cm, a row spacing of 30-40 cm, and 3-4 rows of inserts in each furrow. When cuttings, the cuttings are inserted obliquely in the soil, and a bud eye is exposed on the ground, so that the bud eye is above the back of the cutting, so that the new shoots drawn are straight.

When the ridge is cutting, the width of the ridge is about 30 cm, the height is 15 cm, the ridge spacing is 50-60 cm, the plant spacing is 12-15 cm, and the cuttings are all obliquely inserted on the ridge. After cutting, fill the ditch with water, and if possible, use mulching film and then take cuttings. No matter which cutting method is used, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the upper end of the cuttings should not be too long to expose the surface, and at the same time, it is necessary to prevent random cuttings and avoid mixing of varieties.

, pentile small plastic bag cuttings and film covering method. When cuttings are carried out at soil temperature of 10 15oC in spring, chicken manure, sawdust, river sand, and vegetable garden soil are mixed as culture soil according to the ratio, and are packed into a small plastic bag with small holes at the bottom, so that the culture soil is about 15 cm high, and then the grape branches of the three buds are soaked in water overnight, and gently inserted into the culture soil, and a bud is left outside the plastic bag at the upper end. Linghe buried the plastic bag in the soil, and after the world was full of water, it was covered with a film until it became a seedling.

Compared with open-air cuttings, this method has the following advantages: seedlings are formed early, nearly one month earlier than open-air cuttings; The survival rate is high, reaching more than 95%, while the open cuttings are generally only about 80%, saving watering labor; Occupies less space.

Green branch cuttings. In June, 2-3 knots of semi-lignified branches are cut from the new shoots or secondary shoots of the current year and the green shoots are cuttings. Except for one green leaf at the top of the cuttings (the leaves can be cut off in half if the leaves are larger) and one petiole at the other nodes, the cuttings and management are the same as those of hard branch cuttings.

Water to promote roots. In June, cut the vines of the current year (with one or two two-year-old vines at the lower end); Insert it into a canned bottle of half a bottle of water, take kraft paper or plastic film and cut it into a circle the size of the bottle mouth, and cut it to the center of the circle, then clamp the grape vines in the middle of the cut, and then paste it with adhesive tape and the like; Move the vine-filled bottle into a warmer room or kitchen, and after about 15 days of rooting, it can be moved to the fertile and loose soil. Generally, it can be rooted 2-3 times a year, about 15 days each time, a canned bottle can insert 8-10 seedlings, using shelves, a room can cultivate 2000-3000 bottles, and 10,000 seedlings can be raised.

Cuttings and seedlings are raised in the current year, and the seedlings are multiplied by pressing branches in the current year. This is a new technology to increase the coefficient of grape reproduction. After cuttings, strengthen fertilizer and water management to make seedlings fertile and strong.

When the seedlings grow to 50 cm, the topping is strengthened to promote the growth of secondary shoots, and each plant retains 3-5 secondary shoots. In mid-July, when the secondary shoots are about 10 cm long, the main shoots are pressed into the soil for 5-10 cm, and the secondary shoots grow upright on the ground. After the "white dew" to before the "autumn equinox", the secondary shoots are topped and the seedlings are concentrated to raise the seedlings, so that a branch of the secondary shoots will grow into a robust grape seedling.

In other words, one cuttings can cultivate 3-5 grape seedlings with well-developed roots, full branches and full buds in the same year, and the reproduction coefficient is 4-5 times higher than that of ordinary seedling raising methods.

You can give it a try, and maybe you'll live.

It is best to remove the flower buds from cuttings, soak them in water, take root to 1 cm long and then plant them in the soil.

Hello, yes, as long as there is heating at home.

You can start with hydroponics, take root, and then colonize.

Fig is a deciduous shrub of the genus Ficus mogratus, also known as moon fruit, fairy fruit, honey milk fruit, etc. The florets are hidden in the receptacle, and the flowers cannot be seen directly, but only the false fruit formed by the receptacle, so it is called a fig. The fig tree is an excellent tree species for landscaping and ecological afforestation, and is one of the four ancient fruits that were domesticated and cultivated at the earliest time in the world.

Fig seedlings are not cold-tolerant, so they should be cold-proof and insulated.

1) Hard branch cuttings. Cuttings are harvested after the sap stops flowing in autumn or before germination in spring. Soak in clean water for 3 days, and then bury it with a layer of cuttings and a layer of sand, and the temperature is most suitable at 1 5.

In spring, when the average daily temperature is above 15, the cuttings are cut to a length of 10 15 cm, and there are 2 3 buds on each cutting. Cuttings at an angle of 30 ° 45 °, inclined to the north, must be inserted in the soil 1 bud, the upper bud eye exposes 3 5 cm of soil surface. 10 15 cuttings per square meter of seedbed.

With cuttings, with watering.

2) Shoot cuttings. 6 August for cuttings. The semi-lignified shoots of the current year were selected as cuttings.

Cut cuttings early in the morning, cut 15 20 cm long, keep 2 leaves, and cut off 1 2 large leaves. The cut should be smooth, not split, and should be inserted with picking. Soak the base of the cuttings with 500 mg of naphthalene acetic acid solution for 5 10 seconds, followed by cuttings.

Straight insertion, row spacing 20 cm, plant spacing 15 cm, cutting depth 5 7 cm. After insertion, water thoroughly, shading 80% 90%, temperature control below 30, in the case of 19 26, about 20 days after insertion rooting, remove shade after rooting. After the cuttings are lived, each seedling retains 1 bud.

1. Cuttings are carried out in spring, and the sprouted young buds are selected and inserted after soaking in water for three days

In the sand. 2. The vitality of the insert is weak in the formation period, and the temperature capacity should be strictly controlled, and the moisture should be maintained.

3. During the development period, you can not pour mixed mud water, and keep the soil moist without too much.

4. The sapling has poor cold resistance, and it is ready for frost protection in winter.

5. Fertilize once a month, and the fertilizer is mainly nitrogen-containing compound fertilizer, and the amount of fertilizer should increase accordingly as it grows up.

When cuttings, take out the winter branches or the branches cut from the tree, cut the length of about 15 cm, containing 2 3 full buds of the back branches; When pruning, the upper end of the branch is cut into a flat mouth or oblique mouth above the bud, the cut is 1 cm away from the bud, and the lower end is cut into an oblique mouth. With 1000 2000 mg of indole butyric acid or naeacetic acid as a root promoter, the lower end of the cuttings is soaked in the solution for 1 3 minutes, and then it can be inserted into the seedbed after being taken out to dry. When cuttings, the cuttings are obliquely inserted (30 45 °) into the soil, the cut is to the north, and the upper bud is exposed to the ground; Water thoroughly after insertion.

The cutting density should be 15 30 cm between plants and 20 40 cm between rows, and the number of seedlings per hectare should be 90,150,000.