GUNPLA Modification Problem !! Masters

This ......It's a hassle......

You have to do everything yourself, and it's best to buy some pirated gunpla and tear it down and reuse it ......Metal parts are going to be wasted ......Remember, fill in the ...... with filler soil for useless gapsIf you want to shape, you don't recommend that you do it as a novice, and if you really want to shape, you can cut the pirated parts into the shape you need and then use ......

I'll tell you what tools you need ......

Tweezers (a set of three, elbow tip tweezers, straight tip tweezers, round tweezers), a vice (medium size), a hair dryer or lighter (plastic parts need to be heated to change shape), sandpaper (up to a special one, one of each specification, don't use that kind of decoration to plaster the wall, otherwise your things will be wasted ......The paint looks at it yourself, it is not recommended to use an airbrush, it is okay to use a marker to draw slowly, if it is not necessary, do not change the background color, if you want to use an airbrush, remember to spray, shake and spray, do not hold down (to be honest, I would rather change to black, red and gold) ......After spraying, spray some protective agent, thirty or forty yuan a bottle, to prevent fading ......

The metal parts tutorial downstairs can refer to ......

If there is anything else, just ask for a more professional ......

Whoop ......I don't have time to do it......Otherwise, I'll also get a heavy artillery type)=w=

Use ab to fill the soil as a raw material, and then use a spray gun to color it as a whole, decorate it with a marker, and as for the metal parts, look at this.

I haven't seen what LZ said about being wet, I don't know what it is, but as far as the transformation is concerned, most of them use offset glue sticks.

In the delicate places, you will use clay to carve yourself.

There are metal fittings and the above things.

Primary tools (adding details, engraving): scribe pen or knife (there is a special one), hard edge tape, steel ruler, pen knife.

The above engraving line is enough (to see that LZ is a novice, it is not suitable to move the knife directly on the model, or use the engraving line to assist it with hard-edge tape.) Draw the line you want on the tape, cut it out and stick it to the part, and use a needle or knife to carve out the line (the force must be even!! After becoming proficient, use a pencil to hit a grass directly.

ps: I didn't reach that level, so I didn't dare to do it.

After carving, you can seep the line (no need to teach).

If you want to add more details, you need to use it.

Model modifications, metal supplements, etc., need to prepare corresponding drill bits and paint (color according to preference).

Usage: Cut out the shape you want with the modified material, stick it on the surface of the model, and paint it, it will have a good effect; Use a drill of the corresponding diameter to drill a groove in the desired position on the surface of the model and put the metal supplement in.

The above methods are very effective.

Shape transformation needs to use the soil to attach the soil to the surface of the model to make a general shape, and then use sandpaper to polish it after drying, and then spray paint (not recommended, novices are definitely not good, the old bird is also constantly practicing ah, it is recommended to practice first and then try).

If you are matting, you can directly buy matting, semi-matting, and bright protective paint spraying (choose one according to your needs). You can also buy a pump and an airbrush, prepare the corresponding paint and thinner to spray.

Summary: Tools: marker or knife, hard-edge tape, steel ruler, pen knife, plate for model transformation, drill bit, metal supplement, soil filling, sandpaper, paint; Matteing, semi-matting, bright protective paint spraying (choose as needed) (don't be in a hurry to become proficient and then be a spraying party, so I don't talk about spraying with a spray pen).

It's better to buy a domestic practice hand first and get it directly on Bandai If you are not careful, the tragedy will hurt your heart (anyway, I was very painful).

Modify Gundam,First wipe the surface with sandpaper.,The bodies of the Seed series and the W series are interchangeable, as long as the surface is wiped off,,

Oh,Upstairs for the introduction of the modification is already very detailed,A certain to supplement the problem of lz,First of all, the brand of the modification is very miscellaneous,The more common brands of the human mecha system modification are roughly G-SYSTEM、VP、GK and other brands,There are a considerable number of players self-made,The quality of the modification is because the modification is mostly handmade, so the details of the deformation or mold use too many times are blurred or misplaced, etc., are common,Also because the modifications are mostly handmade, so ** is also uneven, There are hundreds, tens of thousands, and so on. There are two types of modifications that require the use of a skeleton, the first is a 1:100 body, most of which require the skeleton of various MG Gundams, and some even require some outer armor.

Some of the large-scale frames of 1:60 or higher are frames that use PG Gundams, and some are frames designed by the modders themselves. The question of which one needs a skeleton and which one does not need a skeleton as mentioned by LZ can only depend on the modder, but the presence or absence of a skeleton can only indicate the mobility of the model, and the modification with a skeleton 1:

The majority of 100 is :60 or more is 1000+, where ** depends on the complexity of the model and the amount of special materials such as metal parts and optoelectronic components, such as 1:100

There are several versions of Deep Strike, which are broadly divided into using MG

There are two kinds of ex-S skeleton and skeletonless, all of which are around 1500 on the Internet. Needless to say, the 1:60 needs to be equipped with another PG skeleton, and LZ should know that the PG of the old B is all over 1,000 except for the previous ones, which means that LZ will have to bring a specific PG Gundam skeleton after buying thousands of modifications.

Another large-scale model with its own skeleton has always been more than 3-4 thousand. Finally, it is not difficult to say that it is not difficult to change the parts, and most of the people who dare to touch the changes are masters who have played n long time models, and they have a good experience in model transformation, spray painting and coloring, etc., so that they can make resin modifications very well. Attached is the official website of G-system, where ** is the US dollar, LZ please refer to the current exchange rate.

G-System Official Website:

Boxed plastic models, such as HG, MG, PG, BB are all boxed, plates, and ...... made by yourselfOf course, there are also people who sell their finished products, but these finished products are generally much more expensive than the original model, and they may be more than two or three times more than doubled.

Of course, the ** here refers to the finished product with a high degree of completion that has been polished, deseamed, sprayed and even transformed! If you believe that this is a purely elemental product that is cut out of the runner and put together, it will only depreciate ...... value】

There is also a type of finished product series, which is the finished product when it leaves the factory. The runner technology that LS said is a cheap movable product of Haiyangdo, but it doesn't come out of Gundam, and it has nothing to do with Gundam. Chogoki is also a general term for toys that contain alloy parts, and it has little ......to do with Gundam

The most common Gundam finished series are as follows:

1 200 HCM (discontinued),

1 144 shcm (not out), fix (upgraded to gffn), gffn.

Proportionless MIA (not out), robot spirit.

1 100 MB, GFMC

SDX of SD

and so on......These finished products are also more expensive than boxed plastic models, and the quality varies, such as SDX, SHCM, GFFN, GFMC, MB are all high-specification finished models. These series of paintings are still very passable, but the other relatively cheap series of paints are worse, at least not exquisite ......

Moreover, the finished model still has low-level problems such as poor handling of nozzles and parting lines (even if there are more than 1,000 pieces of GFMC), and some of them do not even deal with the joints.

If you make your own model, it is easy to reach the level of the finished series with dim sum, and it is more economical. Most importantly, the do-it-yourself process is the most fun.

Of course, if you have the money, you can still buy the finished ......