Is the Canon 550D with 50 1 8 out of focus bad?

Zooming,Depending on the situation, there are problems with the fuselage,The focus light source is complex,The fuselage itself is right and wrong focused,But this point is rarely on the 550d。

Then there is the lens out of focus, which appears less in the original factory, and is more common in the head of the sub-factory. It's all a matter of probability. So it can't be said that this lens is seriously out of focus, it's just an individual difference, so it is recommended to buy it with a camera and try it on the spot.

However, generally as long as the landlord is very unlucky, 50 will not run, this process is already very mature.

Personal experience (I use 500d and a small spittoon), not serious. If you use the external flash auxiliary focus (that is, the red light emitted by the external flash), it is very rare to miss the focus.

Since Canon's AF focusing screen is fixed, the distance between the light source of the lens and the CMOS and the distance to the AF focusing screen will inevitably have errors, if the focus is errored, when the 50mm lens reaches more than 5 meters, it may produce an error of 5 to 10cm, or larger, Pentax and Nikon will design physical fine-tuning screws in the structure in order to correct this error, and some professional people can correct it by themselves. However, Canon does not have a physical fine-tuning function, and can only fine-tune software, the so-called software fine-tuning is to let the motor rotate a few times after the AF screen is focused, and then correct the error with the CMOS. But there is a disadvantage in this way, that is, the focus motor structure design of different lenses is different, so even if the lens is adjusted, which lens may be out of focus, but the physical fine-tuning is different, after physical fine-tuning, the light emitted by the lens is equal to the distance from the CMOS to the AF screen, so that the camera can be corrected, and the corrected camera is suitable for all lenses. If you want to use the previous lens again, you have to match it again, but because Canon does not disclose this software, you can only go to the Canon service center to match, which is very inconvenient, so if you don't want to bother, you can still buy Canon.

There are two kinds of defocusing, one is that the focus is off a little, and the other is defocused, ** the whole blur. The former can only be fine-tuned by a camera with a fine-tuning function, or sent to a repair center for adjustment. The latter is a common problem with large-aperture lenses, the lower the probability of a good lens being out of focus, and the success rate of more than 50 can produce a film is only 50%, and 50 should be much better.

But there will be, and the only way to do this is to take two more shots or reduce the aperture. The wider the aperture, the easier it is to run. Adopt it.

The Canon 50 is out of focus as follows:

1. The large aperture is seriously out of focus, and the small aperture has no problem of out of focus.

The aperture is small, and it is basically not out of focus.

However, when the aperture is larger, the out-of-focus is very severe.

2. Focus.

With ** point focus, there is very little defocusing.

Focus with the points on both sides, and it is easy to get out of focus.

Portraits? That's absolutely fine!

**Within 3000! The imaging is okay! Once the aperture is received at 2, it is fine.

Of course, it also depends on the camera you use.

If you want to shoot daily, at least 18-55 is equipped, and sometimes you need a wide angle in a narrow room. The last second-hand one is not expensive, 500 yuan. A lot of times it can be saved.

Portraits are also more suitable for fixed focus, and it is difficult for the zoom head to have a beautiful background illusion effect no matter what focal length.

The use of fixed focus and zoom, many situations need to get used to, the fixed focus must be moved back and forth by the photographer, the zoom is not needed, just get used to it, no problem.

However, if you have 50 money, it is recommended that the landlord consider 85, which is a good head.

The Canon 50 has a good fixed focus, but it is not high, but it is easy to run out of focus, so you should pay attention when buying.

Lack is not very satisfied. I want to get one.

First of all, Canon's original focus is still okay.

Since you can use LV to focus well, you can roughly judge that the lens will not have much of a problem.

If it's really out of focus, it's also a problem with the framing part, and the main problem is on the body. The simplest suggestion is to adjust the diopter so that it fits the scale of the eye where the owner is framing the photo.

There's no need to research, it's a coke, and you should give it a try when you buy it. Let's go change the lens.

1. There will be no focus prompt for manual focus, if there is still a focus prompt, then you have not turned on manual focus (manual focus must turn the lens lever to MF (manual focus), AF (autofocus)). If you set it to AF, the lens will still be in focus at the end, no matter where you manually focus it.

2. After focusing on, press the shutter lightly, move the camera to recompose, the focal plane remains unchanged, you can recompose, and then press the shutter after finding a satisfactory composition**. This is the same principle as the fissure screen focusing in the film era (for example, if your lens indicates that the object in focus is 55mm, you press the shutter lightly after focusing, pan the composition, and the focusing distance is still 55mm, if the model or camera has a little displacement at this time, the focus will be unreal, and the focus will be false. ）。

Are you sure it's autofocus? Look at whether the focus switch on the lens is A or M, and adjust to A for autofocus.

Manual focus means that there is no indicator light for focus, which is normal because the autofocus machine may not be able to focus on the point you want to be sharp.

The last point you said I don't understand, can you be specific.

It is 50 that meets your requirements

Canon 550D is a half-frame SLR body, because of the small size of the image sensor, the ** angle of view shot by the lens is not the angle of view shot by the actual real focal length, and the focal length should be multiplied by a coefficient, Canon is. As long as you shoot at 550D, the focal length displayed on the lens must be multiplied.

So in the conventional sense, the 85 focal length is suitable for portraits, so if you use 50 fixed focus, the actual equivalent focal length is 80, and 85 fixed, the actual equivalent focal length is 136

When you actually use it, you will also feel that 50 is more suitable for portraits, and with 85 (actually 136), when shooting portraits, especially full-body portraits with backgrounds, the distance will obviously be far away.

Therefore, it is recommended to set 50, which is stronger than not only the aperture, but also the workmanship and comprehensive quality.

Basically, except for the focal length, it is not as convenient as 18 55, and in other aspects, large aperture, bokeh, image quality, etc., is several grades higher than 18 55.

50 makes up for the shortcomings of 18 55 in terms of image quality, aperture, etc.

The Sigma 50 is sharper than the original Canon, has a better reputation, and is also higher than the original, more than 3000 in the first generation, and nearly 6000 in the second generation, and the Sigma 50 is very common. Recommend Canon's original 50, mainland licensed about 2600, Hong Kong parallel goods about 2000.

That's how you calculate, Canon's full server and half width are converted. You use 85 times, that is, the high sense to drive to 800 is trembling. With a telephoto of 136, you need a lot of space and good light to shoot goods, and you have to have a shelf, otherwise you won't be able to hold it at all.

50 is 80, 80, close to 85, which is the best focal length and aperture for shooting portraits. If the light is low, it can also ensure that you will not hold the film in your hand. If you talk about portraits, 136, 80, 136 are longer, and the aperture is larger, and the bokeh will not be much worse.

It is recommended that the focal length of a 50 half-frame machine be multiplied by 50*, which is close to the requirements of portrait shooting, and 85 can obviously only shoot half a body.

Personally, I think if it's 550D, use 50, which is not only cheaper but also can give full play to the advantages of the lens. The other two, if the landlord has the idea of changing the fuselage, then you can consider it.

Since you said that the blur that occurs after removing the lens and putting it back on, it means that the lens is not working in AF autofocus mode. Even if the lens in AF mode is blurred, the lens will automatically focus when you press the shutter, and then take a ** shot, so there is no problem of blurry shooting. Did you turn the switch or button on the lens?

Note that at the rear of the 18-55 lens, there is an AF MF switch, if you take the lens down, accidentally turn the switch to the MF gear, then if you put it back on, the lens will become MF manual mode, you need to manually focus to make the shot clear. It is recommended that you check the AF MF switch on the lens. The legendary "out of focus" phenomenon?

Try to switch to autofocus, if it still doesn't work, it is recommended to consult Canon (China) after-sales service**4006 222 666. Or find a professional maintenance technician to test it. There are many reasons, and it is difficult to say the specific reasons if you don't test it.

The Canon 550D is blurry in close focus, possibly out of focus.

You can install the lens you want to adjust, open the menu, find the autofocus fine-tuning in the toolbar, adjust the autofocus accuracy of the lens, you can find a wooden box with a row of words, at least 7 words or more horizontally, take the odd number.

After horizontal and horizontal coaxial with the camera, then placed at a 45-degree angle, and then try to shoot, the focus point takes the word in the middle, according to the hyperfocal length clarity range, it can be seen that the focus is larger than the focus front, so when adjusting, the fine-tuning range is finally decided according to this principle. On the other hand, manual adjustments can also be made in this way. After shooting, put it on the computer** and adjust the focus accuracy of this lens when you think it is the best result.

In addition, before adjusting, press the tripod and use the autofocus to focus on the fixed target at near, medium, and long distances. After alignment, mark the position of the focus ruler on the lens, then switch to manual focus, watch the focus screen focus, or use real-time focus to observe whether it coincides with the mark made during autofocus.

There may be the following reasons: 1. You manually zoom when you don't use the autofocus mode;2. If the eyepiece is not clear, you can adjust the focusing wheel on the side of the eyepiece3. There is an option to adjust the focus point in the menu, you can test take a shot in the nine-point focus or center focus mode to see. If that doesn't work, check it out.

If it doesn't work after trying the downstairs method, send it for repair!

1. As the name suggests, it is to meter only one point, which is usually in the same position as the focus point, (in fact, it is a very small area, not a complete point,) The advantage of this method is that according to the photographer's preference, a certain point that the photographer thinks is correct, or the subject being photographed correctly metering, without being disturbed by other nearby lights. For example, if you take a picture of a person's face, you will measure a part of the face, such as the nose or cheek spots.

2. Off-camera flash, you have to have two flashes that can only be triggered by off-camera triggers or internal flashes, and it is best to prepare a flash bracket, which is generally used to shoot people and close-up objects.

3. Backlighting means that the subject is facing away from the light source, and then the light source should be reflected through the flash or reflector to make the subject face the photographer to shoot clearly.

4. Flare is generally wide aperture, 4, and the like are facing the light source or facing the side of the light source, it is easy to shoot, if you want to shoot sunrise and sunset, you need to apply a red, yellow or orange filter. If you have to shoot the sun, you need a filter lens, beware of damaging the camera's photosensitive chip, and you can also use dark black glass and plexiglass to shoot the sun every day.

I look for the instruction manual and set ISO automatically.

The suspect has a dark face, change the metering mode to point metering, and if the P file doesn't work, change to A and then set the aperture to shoot the baby, that's the work of the key technology, and find a forum after reading the manual (Mowgli, Hummingbird, even zol, it's okay) and communicate with your roommates.

How much does your baby need to have a minimum shutter to ensure that it is not muddled, it depends on personal experience, and you can use the shutter priority to set the speed to 1 100 to see.

M file But you have to be good to read the manual and you will use it There is also 550d good I will use it now 50 is a fixed focal length It should be enough to shoot children Good lens. It's going to be dark indoors, so you can try to turn the aperture wider, you can slow down the shutter, you can turn the iOS up, and you can have a white balance adjustment in the camera settings.